Worldly Looks
Fashion involves a certain amount of escapism. The clothes on the runway don’t usually find a place in our daily lives, but they’re fun to admire--from a distance. This spring the escapism is more a state of place than a state of mind.
Take the California surf-inspired looks seen in Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and Chanel with printed neoprene skirts, coats and dresses. We haven’t seen this much neoprene since the mid-’90s, with everyone from Issey Miyake, Donna Karan and, most notoriously, Jean Paul Gaultier with his “Mad Max” quilted-neoprene ball gowns jumping on board. Or consider the California-retro preppy silks and sweaters--the moneyed seaside resort wear from the ‘60s--that Prada and Marc Jacobs have updated in shades of sherbet.
Asian accents always seem to turn up on the runways, but this spring an abundance of floral appliques and kimono sleeves adds a feminine Eastern touch to dresses and tops from Gucci, Jeremy Scott, Stella McCartney and Roberto Cavalli, among others.
The Greek goddess--with a modern twist--was an obvious inspiration for Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana’s draping necklines and the column dresses from Valentino, Bill Blass and Yohji Yamamoto. Classical bronzed bib necklaces, cuffs and strappy sandals follow suit.
And then, of course, there’s France, whose designers turn out their own brand of trend-bending escapism that’s distinctly Parisian, such as sky-high hemlines or a series of wild silhouettes. Understatement is not a word that enters spring’s vocabulary--a contrast and perhaps a backlash to last fall’s funereal looks. More is more with blown-out silhouettes in ruffles and feathers from Alexander McQueen and Ungaro, super-sized glittering platforms from Dior, and saturated color from everyone.
In the following pages, these far-flung influences converge through photographer Robert Trachtenberg’s lens. Staying closer to home, writer Hillary Johnson leads a shopping tour (Page 47) through L.A.’s ethnic neighborhoods, uncovering authentic and exotic wares, including Indian glass bangles, flamenco shoes and African traditional dress. Whether you satisfy your wanderlust from an armchair or in the stores, escaping through fashion is a pleasant journey.
