Down to the cob: scrape versus slice

By Donna Deane

July 9, 2003 12 AM PT

Times Staff Writer

THE best tool for removing kernels from an ear of corn is a good set of teeth -- a technique that’s acceptable only for eating, of course. For recipes, there are dedicated tools, but do they do the job any better than a kitchen knife or box grater? We put two to the test.

First, the tool you need depends on the dish you’re making. For recipes that call for whole kernels, such as salsas, salads and relishes, you need a device that cuts cleanly. Or a knife.

For recipes such as chowder, souffles, puddings and creamed corn, you want a gadget that will scrape the kernels from the cob, so that their milk is released. A box grater will do the job.

The Kernel Kutter is designed for cutting whole kernels from the cob. It’s a toothy metal circle (with handles) that fits around an ear and is pushed from one end to the other, slicing as it goes. Although it leaves quite a bit on the cob, the kernels are in good shape and you don’t get the tough parts at the root.

For fewer than half a dozen ears, it’s just as easy to use a sharp, medium-sized kitchen knife. Place the knife at the center of the cob and cut to the bottom of the ear, then turn the corn and cut off the remaining half. To get the most flavor, scrape the corn cob with the back of the knife to extract any juices.

The Corn Creamer is a 17-inch-long wooden trough-like tool with teeth and a scraper that cuts the kernels and scrapes the juices from the cob. It’s a large gadget for its limited use, and though it needs to be balanced on a bowl, it has no handles, so it slides around on the bowl’s edge as the corn is pushed along the trough. It’s awkward and messy. And it’s too easy to nick a finger on the sharp blades.

An everyday box grater works just fine as a corn creamer, we found. The handle allows you to get a good grip, preventing the tool from sliding as you work. You control the depth of the cut with the amount of pressure you put on the cob as you grate (lengthwise), so you can avoid getting the tough fibers of the cob by not pushing down too hard. When you cream corn using a grater placed in a bowl, the kernels and milk collect neatly as you go.

For whole kernels

KERNEL KUTTER

What’s the difference: It’s fast and furious when you get the rhythm. Adjusts to fit all ears. But save it for cutting in quantity.

What we thought: A great gadget if you have a bushel of corn to cut.

How much: $10 at Williams-Sonoma stores, (877) 812-6235, or online at www.williams-sonoma.com; or order from Kernel Kutter at (800) 577-0705.

KNIFE

What’s the difference: You have more control, so you can cut as close to the cob as you want.

What we thought: It’s worked before, it’ll work again.

How much: It’s in your kitchen.

For creamed corn

CORN CREAMER

What’s the difference: The long, wooden trough holds the corn cob but there’s a smaller cutting area than with a box grater.