a.o.c.

The star of this year’s crop of new restaurants is clearly A.O.C., a wine and food bar from Lucques’ Caroline Styne and Suzanne Goin. Their recipe for success? A sleek, pared-down look, an appealing list of 50 wines by the glass or carafe (plus many more by the bottle) and Goin’s soul-satisfying menu of Mediterranean small dishes. An experienced French charcuterie chef serves up rustic pates and country ham, along with plump boudins--both blanc and noir. Salads, skewers and oven-roasted specialties round out the menu. Cheeses are perfectly ripe, the better to accompany that last bit of Riesling or Pinot Noir.--S.I.V.

A.O.C., 8022 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 653-6359.