2001 Altavilla della Corte

This lilting white wine from Casa Vinicola Firriato in Sicily is a prime example of how far Sicilian winemaking has come in the last decade. Only a few years ago, you never knew what you’d get if you asked for a local wine.

But now some Sicilian winemakers are turning out wines with local character -- and a modern winemaking profile. This wine is an interesting blend of the indigenous white grape Grillo and 20% Chardonnay. The Grillo gives the wine depth and character; the Chardonnay gives it finesse.

Clean and sweet on the nose, round and lush in the mouth, it ends on an intriguing, slightly smoky note. The result is so much more interesting than you’d expect from a white at this price, especially from Italy, and certainly from Sicily. What a revelation.

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Quick swirl

Region: Sicily, Italy

Price: About $11

Style: Light and flavorful.

Food it goes with: Olives and almonds, seafood stews, steamed mussels and shrimp, grilled fish.

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Los Angeles, (310) 306-2822; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454.

--S. Irene Virbila