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2003 Tommasi Vigneto Le Volpare Soave Classico

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Summers in northern Italy are awash in Soave Classico, much of it watery and undistinguished. But when this white is made well, it can be a revelation.

Tommasi’s Soave Classico, from the single vineyard Le Volpare planted on the steep limestone slopes of Soave, is a terrific example. Ripe and concentrated, it has a zingy crispness that makes it perfect summer drinking. It’s 100% Garganega and a bargain at the price.

It’s tremendously food friendly, too, great with raw or steamed shellfish, with grilled fish, and any kind of fish stew. Introduce a bottle to anything Asian or fusion. It could be a love match.

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--S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Veneto

Price: $10

Style: Aromatic and crisp

Food it goes with: Shellfish, seafood pasta, grilled fish, cioppino and other fish stews. Also Asian food and fusion.

Where you find it: Pascal Epicerie in Newport Beach, (949) 261-9041; Vintage Wines Limited in San Diego, (858) 549-2112; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, (800) 76WINEX; the Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111; Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

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