Wrapping a revolutionary run

Showtime’s “Soul Food,” which launches its fifth and final season Wednesday at 10 p.m., always has been an anomaly.

Most networks seem unable to sustain a weekly drama series dominated by complex and diverse black characters. However, this production consistently dishes up hearty dramatic story lines, spiced by the zesty performances of its cast.

By turns funny, heartbreaking, scary and occasionally infuriating, “Soul Food” has provided an unprecedented glimpse inside the lives of an extended middle-class black family. The members deal with far more emotionally resonant situations than the thugs-and-drugs scenarios found elsewhere on TV.

Season 5 opens with what may be a life-altering experience for Ahmad (Aaron Meeks), the honor student son of Kenny and Maxine (Rockmond Dunbar, Vanessa A. Williams). Ahmad receives rough police treatment by officers who believe he was trying to rob an elderly woman he tried to assist after an accident. The experience leaves the teen shaken and bitter, wondering whether the anti-cop messages he hears in rap songs are more on the money than his parents’ instructions to obey the law.

In another story line, Bird (Malinda Williams) is blissfully unaware that husband Lem (Darrin DeWitt Henson) is being shaken down by an FBI agent (Jim Brown in a recurring role) who wants Lem to turn on his mentor, Baron Marks (Michael Warren).

In addition to Brown, the season’s roster of guest stars includes heavy hitters such as Mario Van Peebles, Diahann Carroll and Vondie Curtis Hall (“Chicago Hope”).

All of which raises the question: With front-burner performances like these, and ratings reportedly bubbling away nicely, why is “Soul Food” ending its run?

“For us, having new things in the marketplace is important and ... five years [is] a long run for us,” says Matthew Blank, chairman and chief executive of Showtime. “At some point, these producers and actors were going to move on. We couldn’t be happier with ‘Soul Food’

If wrapping the series, which will air in syndicated reruns on BET, is a bittersweet experience for the cast and creative team, they were all taking the high road at a recent press conference of TV critics.

“Showtime has been absolutely amazing for us to deal with, because if we had gone to a major network, we would not have had the longevity we had on Showtime,” executive producer Tracey Edmonds says, noting that the premium channel actively is seeking another black drama to launch in place of “Soul Food.” “So we’re all really blessed and proud that we had five amazing years and 74 episodes to speak of.”

“Soul Food” cast member Nicole Ari Parker says she is convinced her series could have come up with several more seasons of strong story lines if Showtime had wanted to keep the show running. But she is philosophical about why a show such as hers has thrived on a premium cable channel.

“There have been some attempts at one-hour black [network] dramas, and I think a lot of those shows had a lot of pressure on them to be all things to all people,” the actress says. “One of the advantages of being on Showtime is that we knew we were going to be put into a ‘black’ category or whatever, but we just liberated ourselves to do whatever we wanted: showing nudity, using profanity -- although we didn’t get gratuitous on violence or anything. We had a lot of freedom to tell stories, and not have so much pressure on us.”

Malinda Williams, one of Parker’s onscreen siblings, says she sensed something special about the show almost immediately. “As soon as I met all the cast members -- I think in the audition process -- I told everyone, ‘Ya’ll know we have a hit, right?’ ” she says.

“But what did surprise us was the reaction,” adds the third TV sister, Vanessa A. Williams. “Malinda saw the writing on the wall ahead of all of us, and we were praying, ‘From your mouth to God’s ears.’ But the response on the websites, people just stopping us in airports and giving us love, was incredible for us.”

John Crook writes for Tribune Media Services.