In Hong Kong, a Demand for Democracy

Braving sweltering summer heat, hundreds of thousands of pro-democracy demonstrators marched through the heart of Hong Kong on Thursday, demanding the right to elect their chief executive and all legislators through direct popular vote.

The protest, which drew people from throughout the territory -- young and old, parents with small children, students and pensioners -- was the largest outpouring of pro-democracy sentiments since more than half a million Hong Kong residents turned out a year ago. Organizers claimed that 530,000 took part Thursday, though police put the number at less than half that.

However, with the protest’s stragglers reaching the end more than five hours after the three-mile-long march began, independent estimates were closer to those of the organizers than the police figure.

The demonstration constituted a direct challenge to a ruling in April by Beijing’s Communist Party leadership that rejected calls to elect the next chief executive by direct popular vote in 2007 and all 60 legislators through universal suffrage the following year.

Instead, Beijing provided no timetable for such elections and issued a vague statement saying that democratic reforms in Hong Kong could only proceed carefully and slowly.

In addition to the ruling’s content, legal experts viewed the manner of the Communist leadership’s intervention -- one that effectively preempted public debate -- as a serious blow to the autonomy granted Hong Kong when Britain returned the territory to China in 1997. Under the formula known as “one country, two systems,” the territory is part of China but enjoys many democratic freedoms under its mini-constitution, known as the Basic Law.

Protest organizers, who had predicted 300,000, were clearly elated by the turnout.

“We believe that with such a huge turnout, Beijing will now have to listen to us,” said Lee Chek-yan, one of the organizers.

The size of the demonstration probably will provide additional momentum to democratic political groups as they prepare for elections for the territory’s 60-member Legislative Council in September. Half the council will be elected by direct popular vote, and the rest will be selected by special interest groups such as doctors, lawyers, educators and representatives of organized labor.

Chief Executive Tung Chee-hwa said Thursday that his government would listen to public concerns but reminded residents that the Basic Law provides for eventual universal suffrage. He acknowledged that reaching that goal would not be easy.

Most demonstrators wore white shirts -- a symbol of hope, democracy and freedom, according to organizers. Many also wore yellow ribbons, said to be another sign of democracy, and some wore T-shirts emblazoned with the words “Please Come Back” and the images of two anti-government radio talk show hosts who recently left their jobs amid fears of intimidation.

Demonstrators chanted slogans including, “Fight for democracy” and “Return power to the people,” as they moved from the gathering point in Victoria Park, through the streets of Hong Kong’s main shopping and commercial districts, before dispersing peacefully.

The biggest police problem was dealing with an estimated 650 protesters who were overcome by the combination of heat and extreme humidity. Authorities said the mercury hit 94 degrees, making it the territory’s hottest July 1 on record.

There was no violence reported, and there was no visible tension between marchers and police. Those who turned out seemed more determined than angry.

In part, the mood reflected recent efforts by both Beijing and pro-democracy leaders in Hong Kong to end a war of words that has characterized their relationship and begin the search for a political dialogue.

“There were a lot of mature, middle-class people out there,” business executive Philip Au said after participating in the march. “These are rational people who know what they want.”

Beijing’s response to the demonstration was restrained, complaining only that “some of the slogans and placards were ... inappropriate.” The Bush administration voiced support for the protesters.

Many participants were well-educated professionals who expressed frustration with Tung’s government.

The chief executive was carefully screened before being selected in 1996 by a Beijing-appointed panel.

Tung, who is about halfway through a second five-year term, has done little to push democratic reform in the territory and has lost support within the powerful business community and among middle-class residents because of a perceived lack of vision.

Katherine Lai, a 43-year-old insurance agent marching with her 9-year-old daughter, Tiffany, cited the same two reasons given by many who turned out for the march: “I’m dissatisfied with Tung, and I want the right to vote for his successor.”

Thursday was the anniversaries of the Chinese Communist Party’s birth and of the end of British rule in Hong Kong. China’s People’s Liberation Army opened three bases in the territory to the public and the commanding officer at one facility, Col. Wen Jiankun, said he expected 12,000 visitors.

But it was the second year in a row that a pro-democracy march had eclipsed the official celebrations.

“Whatever happens, the meaning of July 1st has been redefined,” said Nicolas Becquelin, research director for a nongovernmental organization, Human Rights in China. “It’s not just an anniversary, it’s a march for universal suffrage.”

Last year’s protest was the largest on Chinese soil since the pro-democracy movement was crushed in Beijing’s Tiananmen Square 15 years ago. It was driven by outrage over the Tung government’s attempt to ram through a highly unpopular anti-subversion law and its failure to respond more quickly to last year’s SARS public health crisis.

The 2003 demonstration not only stunned Beijing, it also altered the way Hong Kong residents viewed themselves: as a politically involved people, contradicting the long-held notion that they are too distracted making money to protest.

It’s a new self-image that only seemed to be reinforced by Thursday’s march.