The food may be tiny, but the impact is big

Who would have thought? An exotic newcomer has shown up on an unpromising stretch of Cahuenga Boulevard between Barham and Universal Studios boulevards. Is it Hollywood? Is it Studio City? Somewhere in the borderlands.

Minibar has something insouciant and perky in its attitude. A tangerine M floats in the window over the bar. It’s the surest way to find the place (or look for the valet station out front, manned by female valets from “Valley of the Dolls”).

Inside, this new hipster lounge has a goofy charm. Globe lights glow a mysterious blue. Round ceramic plates -- or are they shields? -- pattern the walls like polka dots. And tables are occupied by interesting looking people who seem like they’re having a fine time, sipping cocktails and nibbling on what Minibar calls canapes.

They’re not hors d’oeuvres exactly, but small plates more like tapas filed on the menu under categories “this,” “that” and “the other.”

Devised by consulting chef Sharon Hage of York Street Cafe in Dallas, Minibar’s menu offers an engaging melting pot of influences.

Baby back ribs get a chipotle-molasses sauce. Grilled duck sausage comes with braised endive and poached pears. Delicious, sticky Moroccan chicken wings are glazed in a pomegranate-orange reduction.

Look around: There’s a lot of plate passing going on, all to the beat of an eclectic soundtrack. Not-so-mini egg rolls come stuffed with duck.

I loved the veal meatballs spiked with chorizo sausage and the Dungeness crab fritters with a jalapeno aioli.

For dessert, we had to have the marshmallow stew. Say what? That would be a chocolate soup that tastes like a very liquid chocolate pudding with homemade marshmallows floating and melting on top. Say yum.

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Minibar

Where: 3413 Cahuenga Blvd. West, Los Angeles

When: Wednesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner Monday through Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to midnight

Cost: Small plates, $5 to $14

Info: (323 ) 882-6965