FEAT OF THE WEEK

You can see the bacon sizzle at the lip of this pretty decent wave and, yes, I am shooting for the barrel. No girlie man. I’m going for it. I ended up getting crushed, obliterated and otherwise Maytagged, but, hey, it was worth a shot. I was thinking, how many times do I have left to go for the barrel?

Terry Rodgers, 50

San Diego