Seeking solid fare

THE troika of articles by your film critics analyzing Hollywood’s box office slump [“A Summer of Discontent,” July 31] brought to mind an important point of view in Rudolph Chelminski’s book “The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine.”

Too many high-profile chefs try to impress the food critics or other chefs. And too many food critics eat a gourmet meal (or two) every day. Consequently, both the cooks and their sated critics are often out of touch with what most diners really want to experience.

Similarly, actors, directors and studios all contrive to outdo their peers while simultaneously trying to wow the critics and appeal to a narrow group of chain-viewing teenagers.

Solid home-style cooking and elegant classic cuisine seldom receive rave reviews, but they are enduringly popular. Vain innovations, on the other hand, often lack staying power or broad appeal.

Before the studio honchos figuratively blow their brains out (which is something poor chef Bernard Loiseau literally did when he feared the critics were turning against him), perhaps they can focus on how elegant and well-made traditional fare manages to repeatedly satisfy so many for so long.

ROD LEARNED

Wichita, Kan.