Skirt chaser

The skirt steak may not have the glamorous rep of filet mignon. But we think it’s positively delicious. Plus it’s relatively inexpensive. No wonder chefs love it.

Lemon Moon

Of the two-dozen or so prepared salads on offer at this haute cafeteria, the colorful, Asian-inspired skirt steak salad is the most popular, chef Danny Elmaleh says. In addition to grilled steak, it features cucumbers, shiitake mushrooms, scallions, tomatoes, Thai basil, black sesame seeds and a beguiling Asian vinaigrette.

* Steak salad, $4.50. 12200 W. Olympic Blvd., Suite 110, West L.A.; (310) 442-9191.

El Torito Grill

At this popular Mexican eatery, you’ll find warm, handmade flour tortillas fresh off the griddle, excellent guacamole and hearty carne asada made with a 12-ounce skirt steak marinated in adobo (a blend of roasted chilies, tomato, garlic and onion). The steak is served with a cheese enchilada, a sweet corn cake and a cup of good, smoky, soupy beans.

* Carne asada, $15.99. 9595 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 550-1599.

A.O.C.

Among the many delicious things to eat at chef Suzanne Goin’s ever-popular wine bar is a Niman Ranch skirt steak that is grilled over a blend of citrus and pecan wood, sliced against the grain for maximum tenderness, drizzled with a house-made steak sauce and topped with a dollop of aged balsamic aioli. It is served atop a bed of arugula.

* Skirt steak, $14. 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A.; (323) 653-6359.

Lala’s

Enjoy the entrana (grilled skirt steak) three different ways at this lively Argentine grill: simply grilled, al ajo (topped with sauteed garlic) or slathered with sauteed mushrooms. All come with a choice of salad, rice, mashed potatoes or French fries.

* Entrana, $12.95; with garlic, $13.95; with mushrooms, $14.95. 7229 Melrose Ave., L.A.; (323) 934-6838.

Beechwood

The bar menu at this modern American restaurant goes well beyond nachos and buffalo wings. To wit: an 8-ounce skirt steak marinated in Coca-Cola, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, red wine, garlic and thyme, grilled and served with a choice of standard brand fries, ultra-skinny shoestrings flecked with parsley, or, for a $1 surcharge, sweet potato fries.

* Skirt steak, $14. 822 Washington Blvd., Venice; (310) 448-8884.

-- Leslee Komaiko