Grecian formulas
What’s Greek? A plate of moussaka, a phalanx of dancing waiters, grandiose roast lamb dishes? All these things.
Malvasia Mediterranean Taverna
Trust Belmont Shore to host the Southland’s most upscale Greek restaurant. At Malvasia, Italian and even French items share the menu with homey Greek dishes such as kouneli stifado (rabbit braised with currants and pearl onions) and spetsofai, a rustic stew of peppers, eggplant, potatoes and Greek sausages with a haunting scent of orange peel.
* Kouneli stifado, $15.50. Spetsofai, $10.95. 5316 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, (562) 433-5005.
Papadakis Taverna
An institution for more than 30 years, Papadakis is as famous for its Greek dancers exuberantly smashing crockery as it is for its food. The pride of the place is arni a la Papadakis, a lamb loin first sauteed with wine and mushrooms, then wrapped in bacon and baked in filo dough.
* Arni a la Papadakis, $31. 301 W. 6th St., San Pedro, (310) 548-1186.
Mama Voula’s
In a multi-culinary corner mall (which also features a Persian and a Oaxacan restaurant) is this tiny place brightly painted Greek blue and white. The main dishes at Mama Voula’s -- all under $9 -- include delicious grilled baby octopus, spreading their chewy little tentacles like a starburst.
* Octopus, $7.99. 11923 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 478-9464.
Christakis
Like many a Greek restaurant, Christakis has a live Greek music and belly dancing show on Fridays and Saturdays, but its emphasis is really on the food. The house specialty is rack of lamb for two, tender, juicy and redolent with Greek oregano.
* Rack of lamb, $39.95. Lafayette Plaza, 13011 Newport Ave., Tustin, (714) 731-1179.
Sofi Greek Restaurant & Garden
Sofi has been here two blocks west of the Farmers Market for more than 20 years. You enter through a narrow, unpromising passageway, but soon you’re in a quiet patio. Patzari is an unusual dish of beets dressed with walnuts and garlic. Sofi’s most famous entree is kotopoulo riganato (for some reason called kotopoulo lemonato at lunch), a half roast chicken with a tang of lemon and oregano.
* Patzari, $6.50. Kotopoulo riganato, $15. 8030 3/4 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (323) 651-0346.