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Collage of food: burgers, fish, dim sum
Clockwise from top left: salmon plate from Doto, bagels from Belle’s, kitel dumpling from Sora Craft Kitchen, smashburger from Marathon Burger and dumplings from Happy AYCE Hot Pot.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times, Yasara Gunawardena / For The Times)

The best places to eat and drink this month, according to our food writers

With the U.S. economy teetering toward a recession and the act of eating out (or not) symbolizing a way to make a stand, dining at a restaurant can feel fraught lately. But restaurants are more than creative canvases for chefs or stylish spaces to see and be seen; they are indispensable third spaces that add to the character of our city. When we make it a point to support local food businesses, the impact ripples to our neighbors and throughout our communities.

In downtown L.A., the Original Pantry Cafe closed its doors in early March after 101 years of business. Readers wrote in to share some of their favorite memories at the restaurant, including Patricia Riordan Torrey, whose father and former L.A. Mayor Richard Riordan was the cafe’s longtime owner.

“In 1993, just after my dad became mayor, we rode our bikes from the Westside, down Olympic, to have breakfast at the Pantry,” Torrey recalled.

It’s not just legendary institutions that need support.

In downtown, one chef is subverting the usual model by operating his homestyle Turkish restaurant as a staff of one. On Melrose Avenue, a newly revamped diner hopes to continue the mission of late rapper and activist Nipsey Hussle. A new wave of coffee and matcha shops has opened across the city, offering Angelenos chic remote-working dens.

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And there are still plenty of places to eat affordably in Los Angeles, whether it’s an all-you-can-eat buffet or a slew of lunch deals for under $15.

From soup dumplings in Santa Monica to pickle flights in the Original Farmers Market, here’s where to eat and drink in L.A. this month:

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Bahr Cafe

Historic South-Central Cafe
Cheese boreg with cardamom cream top coffee at Bahr Cafe.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
A new destination for Armenian coffee and inventive bites has opened in the lobby in the Reef complex in Historic South-Central. From chefs Travis Mateoesian and Alan Rodoy, the menu at Bahr Cafe blends Middle Eastern, Italian, Californian and Eastern European influences, including a frequently changing lineup of pizzas, breakfast sandwiches, braised lamb with Medjool date BBQ sauce, a falafel bowl and salad. Specialty drinks include a cardamom cream top latte and hot and a strawberry matcha latte.
Read about new coffee and matcha shops to visit in L.A.
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Belle's Bagels, Delicatessen and Bar

Highland Park Jewish Deli $$
A plate of whitefish salad on a bagel and a bowl of chickpea salad with bagel chips on a table corner
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
One of the most creative martinis in Los Angeles is packed with pickles. At Belle’s in Highland Park, columnist Jenn Harris recommends pairing the pickle martini with a plate of fried pickles for a double dose of brininess. The delicatessen and bar is also a popular stop for its bagel sandwiches and Jewish comfort foods such as mazto ball soup and pickle-brined chicken schnitzel, with a full bar of classic-leaning cocktails.
Read about the best pickle dishes in L.A.
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Casa Gish Bac

Pico-Union Oaxacan $
A plate of chicken in mole negro at Casa Gish Bac. At left are fresh tortillas. Above are enchiladas verdes.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
After a successful 15-year-run in Arlington Heights, one of L.A.’s favorite Oaxacan restaurants has relocated to a spacious banquet hall in Pico-Union. From owners David and Maria Ramos, the menu at Casa Gish Bac remains largely the same with an array of moles, tlayudas, soups, enchiladas and barbacoa, plus the addition of wine, beer, mimosas and margaritas.
Read about the opening of Casa Gish Bac.
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Chili John's

Burbank American $
The famous chili spaghetti from Chili John's in Burbank.
(Miguel Vasconcellos / For The Times)
One of Burbank’s most beloved food institutions is under threat of closure. Open since 1946, Chili John’s owners Steve and Claudine Hager told reporter Stephanie Breijo that the restaurant never recovered from COVID losses. The husband and wife are hopeful that the launch of their new adjacent bar Taproom at Chili John’s, along with a GoFundMe, might help them recoup some losses. Famed for its chili that can be added to burgers, bowls of spaghetti, rice and beans or fries, Chili John’s has appeared in countless movies and TV shows, including “Twin Peaks” and “Star Trek.” The new taproom opens this month with the same iconic lineup of chili dishes plus new items including charcuterie boards, a steak sandwich, local craft beer, calimocho and wine.
Read about the new Taproom at Chili John’s.
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Din Tai Fung (Santa Monica)

Santa Monica Chinese $$
Chopsticks lift a shrimp-and-pork shao mai at Din Tai Fung in Santa Monica.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
A global destination for soup dumplings has landed in a sprawling new location in Santa Monica. In a departure from its other Southern California restaurants, the Din Tai Fung outpost at Santa Monica Place mall is reservation-only. The menu features hand-folded dumplings, noodle soups, stir-fried rice, house cocktails and more, and the patio deck includes a fire pit alongside ocean views.
Read about the new Din Tai Fung location in Santa Monica.
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Doto

Silver Lake Californian cuisine
Grilled miso-rubbed Arctic char with sushi rice, mizuna and house pickles on a wood table at Doto in Silver Lake.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
In the space formerly occupied by Jewel in Silver Lake, Doto comes from chef Jared Joe Dowling of Santa Monica’s Edgemar. The morning menu includes standard coffee drinks as well as a specialty Koji caramel latte; kimchi musubi croissants and other pastries from local baker Sugarbloom; and larger-format plates including a Spanish tortilla, breakfast burrito, fried chicken sandwich and house bento box with miso Arctic char and skirt steak. Dinner service is expected to launch soon.
Read about the wave of exciting cafes opening around Los Angeles.
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Elorea

Koreatown Shop
A coffee cup topped with latte art on a counter at Elorea in Koreatown. Beside it, a slip of paper fragrance card.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
For a truly immersive cafe experience, visit Elorea, a coffee shop and perfumery housed in a Koreatown penthouse. First launched in New York City, the L.A. outpost invites guests to browse aromas, sip specialty drinks or combine activities by choosing a signature beverage inspired by one of the brand’s scents. For example, the Earth coffee drink features misugaru, espresso, ginger, vanilla, milk and dark chocolate, while the accompanying Earth perfume has similar warm and woodsy notes.
Read about the coffee shop and perfumery in Koreatown.
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Gong Gan

Silver Lake Cafe
A trio of drinks on a blue table at whimsical Korean cafe Gong Gan in Silver Lake.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
This New York-founded Korean-inspired cafe is an influencer’s dream with its whimsical interior and wildly garnished beverages, but don’t take that to mean to the menu doesn’t have depth. In addition to corn milk lattes and meringue affogatos, the croissant-waffle hybrids known as “croffles” dominate the menu and can be crowned with ice cream, matcha, brown cheese and other toppings.
Read about the new Korean cafe in Silver Lake.
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Happy AYCE Hot Pot

Rosemead Chinese $$
Trays of har gao, shumai and xiao long bao at all-you-can-eat dim sum service at Happy AYCE Hot Pot in Rosemead.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
The dining room at Happy AYCE Hot Pot fills quickly for all-you-can-eat dim sum service, so columnist Jenn Harris recommends heading there early to avoid a wait. Wave down the cart to try pork ribs, radish cakes, chicken feet, and don’t forget to visit the hot bar in the back room to fill up on stir-fried noodles, fried rice, egg rolls and dessert. Highlights include the steamed salted egg black custard buns and fried sesame balls filled with sweet red bean, but Harris recommends skipping the dumplings.
Read about all-you-can-eat dim sum in Rosemead.
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Here Fishy Fishy

Northeast Antelope Valley Sushi $$
A fried soft-shell crab over sweet carrot puree from Here Fishy Fishy
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
Name aside, columnist Jenn Harris insists that this all-you-can-eat sushi spot in Koreatown is worth trying. The menu features two dozen nigiri, appetizers, salad, tempura, Korean barbecue and skewers, and diners have a 90-minute window to finish their selections. Avoid wasting food by placing small orders intermittently. Harris also recommends ordering from the “special” menu, especially the Spider Man with deep-fried soft-shell crab over a sweet carrot puree.
Read about the best all-you-can-eat buffets to try.
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Lasung Tofu & Pot Rice

Harvard Heights Korean $$
Lobster soondubu, or soft-tofu stew at Lasung Tofu & Pot Rice in Koreatown. At left are a series of banchan.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
On6thAvenue Hospitality unveiled its latest food concept with Lasung Tofu & Pot Rice, specializing in modern Korean soft tofu stews. The rich red broths come filled with crab, beef short ribs, mixed intestines, ham or lobster tail and can be ordered a la carte or in a set meal. Pot rice with grilled eggplant, eel and other fillings; seafood pancakes; fried dumplings; and bone broth round out the menu. The beverage menu includes a rice punch slushie, soju, beer and Korean rice wine.
Read about the new soondubu specialist.
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Marathon Burger

Fairfax American $
A smash burger at Marathon Burger. Behind is a Marathon-branded cup of lemonade and a basket of fries, and fried shrimp
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
A new diner on Melrose Avenue is drawing nonstop lines, not just because of its Wagyu smashburgers, fried shrimp and hot wings, but the legacy attached. Opened in the former Johnny Rockets space, Marathon Burger is the latest expansion for the Marathon brand launched by late rapper and community activist Nipsey Hussle and now led by the Marathon group that includes Hussle’s brother Samiel “Blacc Sam” Asghedom and his estate, as well as second-generation L.A. restaurateur Casey Parker. The 12-seat counter overlooks the open kitchen and grill, with additional seating on the patio. In addition to an assortment of burgers, the menu includes a French toast waffle and hash browns for breakfast, fries and onion rings.
Read about the opening of Marathon Burger.
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Midnight Oil

Long Beach Dim Sum Cocktails $$
An array of dim sum and the fried rice cocktail at Midnight Oil in Long Beach.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
Find creative cocktails paired with dim sum plates at Midnight Oil, in the former Rosemallows space in Long Beach. Now owned by Leonard Chan of the hospitality group and consulting firm that runs Anaheim speakeasy the Blind Rabbit and San Clemente tiki bar the Lost Inferno, the revamped bar space now features a tiki bent with pan-Asian influence, including an orange matcha negroni, a frozen piña colada and a vodka cocktail with passion fruit and vanilla foam. Shareable plates include Spam fried rice, spring rolls and lightly battered shishito peppers, with radish cakes, pork buns and dumplings on the dim sum menu. A speakeasy called Roadkill is also attached to the space and a third cocktail concept is forthcoming.
Read about the new bar in Long Beach.
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Moohan

Koreatown Korean Barbecue $$
A vertical photo of two scallion-topped pieces of Wagyu nigiri on a white plate at Moohan Korean BBQ in Koreatown
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
For those looking to dine out on a budget, columnist Jenn Harris rounded up four of her favorite all-you-can-eat options around town. From the restaurant group behind Quarters and Origin, Moohan opened last September and features an extensive hot bar of appetizers and side dishes, as well as a wide selection of Wagyu and prime beef. An essential meal package is priced at $37.99, while a more expansive menu with additional meat options costs $55.99. Harris recommends saving room for the Wagyu bulgogi.
Read about the best all-you-can-eat spots in L.A.
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Pedroca’s Burguer

Lawndale Brazilian Burgers $
The X Raposao burger from Pedroca's Burguer in Lawndale
(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
Head to Pedroca’s Burguer in Lawndale for Brazilian-style burgers that rebuke the smashburger trend with colossally stacked creations that columnist Jenn Harris says you’ll have to “detach your jaw” to eat. From chef and owner Pedro Carvalho, the burgers here mimic the ones that he grew up with in his home state of Minas Gerais in southeastern Brazil, with hefty beef patties, fried potato sticks, corn and a house-made pink mayo-based sauce, though the burgers at Pedroca’s can be further enhanced with fried sausage, bacon, ham, shredded chicken or a fried egg.
Read about the Brazilian-style burger stand in Lawndale.
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Sora Craft Kitchen

Downtown L.A. Turkish $$
Icla kofte (Kitel) dumpling in yogurt sauce.
(Yasara Gunawardena / For The Times)
Chef Okay Inak is a one-man show who handles all operations at the cozy downtown restaurant that he funded alongside his wife Sezen Vatansever, including prepping, cooking, cleaning and serving. The menu blends Inak’s experience cooking at fine-dining temples like Eleven Madison Park in New York City and Melisse in Santa Monica with the Turkish dishes his mother made for his family growing up, including kitel, a laborious variation on kibbeh, and corti taplamasi, a soup with weeks-long-fermented cabbage. Customers can place orders on a mounted tablet by the door, with chicken and beef kebab bowls, falafel and fried chicken pita wraps available for lunch.
Read restaurant critic Bill Addison’s review of Sora Craft Kitchen.
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Topped

Fairfax Pickle shop $
A selection of pickle boats and loaded pickle chips from Topped at the Original Farmers Market.
(Eddie Sanchez)
It’s a great time to be a pickle lover in Los Angeles, according to columnist Jenn Harris. At the Original Farmers Market, longtime pickle stall Kaylin + Kaylin launched Topped, where guests can order pickle sandwiches, loaded pickle chips and flights with pickle mini boats stuffed with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos; cream cheese, lox and everything bagel seasoning; and peanut butter and Nutella with crushed pretzels.
Read about the best spots for pickles in L.A.
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