2003 Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chardonnay

Supple and graceful, the 2003 Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chardonnay is deceptive. It drinks expensive but carries an astonishingly modest price tag.

From one of the top wineries in South Africa, the Rustenberg Chardonnay is barrel-fermented and aged in French oak, very like Mt. Eden in style. With its silken texture, lively acidity and beguiling aroma of white peaches and citrus, this is one Chardonnay that plays well with food. Fortunately, it’s inexpensive enough to lay in a supply and declare it the house white.

Pop the cork for roast birds, grilled fish and seafood, or a seafood risotto. It can also do double duty as an afternoon pick-me-up. What time is it now? Five o’clock? Getting awfully close to the aperitif hour.

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Quick swirl

Region: Stellenbosch, South Africa

Price: About $15

Style: Supple and elegant

Food it goes with: Grilled fish and seafood, roast chicken, seafood risotto

Where you find it: Beverages & More in Torrance, (310) 543-9170, Pasadena, (626) 356-9462, and West Hollywood, (323) 882-6971; S.A. Wine Co. in Huntington Beach, (714) 892-3030; Southern Hemisphere Wine Center in Huntington Beach, (800) 504-9463; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463.

-- S. Irene Virbila