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Virbila fed into steak searing myth

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I’M writing in response to S. Irene Virbila’s article on Puck’s new steakhouse, Cut [“A Brilliant Steakhouse Indeed,” Aug. 9]. About halfway through the review, Ms. Virbila states that the chef sears the steaks “in the 1,200-degree broiler to seal in the juices.” Being in the food industry, Ms. Virbila should know that “sealing in the juices” of protein is a myth. Harold McGee states in his book “On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen” that “we do know for a fact that whether done early or late, searing does not seal, but it does brown: It won’t prevent flavor from escaping, but it creates flavor via the complex browning reactions.”

MICHAEL LOGAN

San Luis Obispo, Calif.

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