2003 Poggio Antico Rosso di Montalcino

Poggio Antico is back on track, making some of the best Brunello di Montalcino on the planet. Those hills don’t come cheap. This is Tuscany and one of the region’s top viticultural areas.

In 2003, Poggio Antico’s Rosso di Montalcino is more than a baby Brunello, more like a younger brother to the big guy. At Poggio Antico, the rosso is made from younger Brunello vines, cultivated exactly in the same manner as Brunello. It’s just not aged as long, which makes for a fresh, juicy red. Bright ruby, it flirts with scents of cherries, earth and a touch of vanilla. Round and ripe, this is a red that will charm just about anything. Drink it with chicken liver crostini, with bruschetta and hearty soups, with pasta and grilled chops.

It’s a beautiful Tuscan for less than $30.

Quick swirl

Region: Tuscany

Price: About $30

Style: Ripe and round

Food it goes with: Chicken liver crostini, hearty soups and pastas, grilled ribs and chops.

Where you find it: Fireside Cellars in Santa Monica, (310) 393-2888; Giuliano Delicatessen in Gardena, (310) 323-6990; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

-- S. Irene Virbila