Kraft’s no match

Violet

When Jared Simons set out to create a macaroni and cheese to serve at his stylish new American restaurant, he didn’t mess around. “I like to make the dish as rich as possible,” the chef says. So he sautes cubes of serrano ham with leeks, adds heavy cream and parmesan, mixes in elbow macaroni, then bakes individual servings finished with Gruyere and bread crumbs for a crispy top.

* Mac and cheese, $7.50. 3221 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 453-9113.

Boneyard Bistro

When the golden triangles are set down on diners’ tables here, more than a few think there’s been some mistake. “This is mac and cheese?” Yes, indeed. It’s chef Aaron Robins’ delicious take: fairly traditional but jazzed up with a touch of cayenne pepper that is pressed into a sheet pan, chilled, cut into triangles, enrobed in flour, egg and panko, and deep-fried.

* Small side order, $4; large, $6. 13539 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 906-7427.

The Belmont

As if standard mac and cheese weren’t decadent enough, this American bistro does theirs with shell pasta tricked out with three kinds of cheese (smoked gouda, smoked mozzarella and Swiss), blue crab, diced apple-wood-

smoked bacon, scallions and chopped tomato. Topped with a crunchy layer of panko, it is served piping hot in a skillet.

* Mac and cheese, $14. 747 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., (310) 659-8871.

Pavilion

When Bill Bracken left his longtime post at the Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills for the Island Hotel in Newport Beach, Orange County residents scored some of his yummy signature dishes. Perhaps the most popular? Mac and cheese made with Taleggio cheese and crushed black truffles, sort of the Rolls-Royce of the genre.

* Mac and cheese, $13. 690 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 759-0808.

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar

Among the side dishes at this new entry in the San Fernando Valley is mac and cheese made with smoked cheddar and regular cheddar cheese. A little roasted garlic and a topping of panko seasoned with chipotle pepper give it that extra something. To drink? More than 100 wines.

* Mac and cheese, $7.95. 6373 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, (818) 346-1005.

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-- Leslee Komaiko