2004 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Rose

This is no wimpy rose, but a serious wine that just happens to be the color of rose petals. The surprise is that it comes not from Provence or the south of France, regions where rose is a way of life, but from Marsannay in Burgundy. Who knew Pinot Noir could make such a fine rose with a haunting note of cherries and earth? Bone dry, its silky texture and firm structure make it a versatile food wine.

Enjoyable as an aperitif, the 2004 rose from Burgundy producer Domaine Bruno Clair can easily come to the table too. Pour it for an omelette aux fines herbes, a salade Nicoise, a grilled tuna steak. It could be great with steak tartare too.

Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $17

Style: Dry and silky

Food it goes with: Omelets, salade Nicoise, grilled tuna, etc.

Where you find it: Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; L.A. Wine Company in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-9463; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX.

-- S. Irene Virbila