A sleek new place to eat on Sunset

IT’S no secret that Pinot Hollywood seemed a bit fatigued lately. Actually, for quite a while. And with all the new spots opening in Hollywood, this stalwart member of the Patina Group was in dire need of a makeover.

And while they were at it, why not a new name too? And a whole new concept?

The new name seems designed to look kinda cute on an e-invitation, as in, “meet me at eat. on sunset [all lowercase to spare your pinkie on the keyboard] for martinis and tidbits at 8.” But good luck getting eat. on sunset’s number from information.

They’ve streamlined the decor, stripping away the French bistro froufrou and replacing it with a cool modern palette of blues and taupes. The layout is exactly the same as before, but somehow the enclosed patio in front looks more inviting now, with strings of lights hanging from the tented roof, and a few stylish chaise longues flanked by low tables where candles sputter in the dark.

The biggest changes are in the chef and his menu. The chef is Gary Menes, late of Firefly in Studio City, where he actually got people to come in more for the food than for the scene. He’s young and has his wits about him. His new menu is mostly American, divided neatly between the traditional and the edgier modern, without ever pushing the comfort level of a generation that’s just a little suspicious of new and exotic tastes.

On a recent visit, I had some really nice dishes. Tops on my list is Menes’ “toad in a hole,” a slab of buttery brioche topped with a poached egg, apple wood-smoked bacon and a little black truffle. Maine lobster salad is garnished with pears and pomegranate. And agnolotti are filled with chestnuts and napped in sage butter.

I like the way each plate has its own compelling sides. Slow-baked Snake River Farms pork belly comes with marinated braised endive and svelte sweet potato “fondant.” Hen confit arrives with an escort of risotto, earthy winter vegetables and its own juices.

Instead of offering just a steak, Menes presents “beef two ways”: a petite grilled prime rib-eye, and oxtail braised to a fine tenderness in red wine. And his surf ‘n’ turf is monkfish and pot roast. When it gets cold enough to shiver realistically, I’ll sign on for that one.

It’s worth mentioning that the Patina Group’s policy of no corkage fee (except at Patina itself) has become a magnet for wine collectors who want to bring a coveted bottle from their cellars without having to pay corkage. It works to the restaurant’s advantage, because it doesn’t have to tie up as much money in a big wine list.

Because eat. on sunset is so close to the studios, it’s open for lunch too, which is a thought. There’s also the cozy lounge in back to meet for a drink and slurp oysters or get a quick bite. The savvy lounge menu includes grilled Kurobuta pork and duck sausage on wilted greens, a grilled cheese sandwich with caramelized shallots, and brandade fritters with arugula pesto.

This place is just one more sign that Hollywood’s done napping.

*

eat. on sunset

Where: 1448 N. Gower St., Los Angeles

When: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; dinner, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Lounge open 4 to 11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Full bar. Valet parking.

Cost: Dinner appetizers, $7 to $14; main courses, $21 to $27. Lunch appetizers, $6 to $12; main courses, $10 to $17. Lounge menu, $4 to $11.

Info: (323) 461-8800,

www.patinagroup.com/eatSunset