Market-fresh, in Ojai

WHEN one door closes, another opens. A few months ago, Christian Shaffer closed Chloe, his Playa del Rey restaurant, only to debut his latest project, Auberge at Ojai, a couple of weeks ago.

The free-standing building, set back from the main road by a pocket park, was in dire need of an update. To the rescue came Shaffer’s wife, Tedde, who did the decor for their Manhattan Beach restaurant, Avenue, as well. She pulled out the carpet, laid new hardwood floors and put in a flagstone fireplace. Now it has a pleasant back deck, a fresh paint job and (or soon, anyway) a sign.

Meanwhile Shaffer and his chef de cuisine, Nickos Rovello, have been busy in the kitchen. As at Avenue (and Chloe), the menu will be seasonal, revamped entirely each month to reflect whatever’s best in the market at the time.

I brought along a longtime Ojai resident who thought he’d died and gone to heaven. “At last, someplace where you can eat,” he said.

And eat we did. Oysters come either on the half shell or “rock,” i.e. Rockefeller style. And if you’ve given up on finding a decent version of oysters Rockefeller, try these; the spinach is fresh, the sauce isn’t too overwhelming. I liked the duck rillettes too, served with pretty yellow beets, blood oranges and walnuts.

The kitchen knows what to do with foie gras and turned out a perfectly seared slice paired with maple-glazed pears in a Muscat sauce. Salads are fresh and inventive. House-cured gravlax was quite salty, though.

For sheer comfort, try the succulent grandmother’s chicken with pearl onions, bacon, carrots and turnips. Braised oxtail makes an appearance with hearty barley and cepes. Skate wing comes in a green sauce with fresh asparagus and salsify. Cubes of butternut squash make a lovely accompaniment for venison, but this is one dish in which the chef goes over the top with a fussy presentation and a chocolate sauce that would better suit an ice cream sundae.

On second thought, save your chocolate hit for the hot chocolate cake with marshmallow spoon.

*

Auberge at Ojai

Where: 314 El Paseo Road, Ojai

When: Open 5:30 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays; to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Beer and wine. Street parking.

Price: Appetizers, $6 to $13; main courses, $22 to $29; desserts, $7

Info: (805) 646-2288