Annexed by the French

WEST 3rd Street is fast becoming L.A.’s cafe district. You can bask in the sun at a sidewalk table at Toast, dig into hefty muffins and such at Doughboys or crumbly scones at Joan’s on Third. And now there’s a thoroughly French alternative, Little Next Door, which happens to be right next door to the venerable and romantic French restaurant the Little Door. Like its sibling, Little Next Door is big on atmosphere.

Wander down the street just west of Crescent Heights Boulevard at 10 a.m. and waiters in blue-and-white-striped sailors’ jerseys are sweeping out the terrace in front of this cafe/boulangerie/delicatessen. Set with those adorable French woven bistro chairs and faux marble-topped tables, it looks like a cafe along the tree-lined Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence.

Cafe au lait comes in two sizes, served in classic fluted white porcelain bowls. It tastes very French, which is to say, slightly weak with a milky foam on top. The boulangerie works with organic ingredients, turning out traditional morning pastries such as brioche, pain au chocolat and, of course, croissants with or without almonds. Bite into a warm croissant and your lap is showered with crumbs in indubitable French style. It comes with sweet butter and luscious house-made strawberry jam, which is also sold in French canning jars on the shelves, along with pickled vegetables, harissa and the Moroccan spice mixture ras al hanout, all made in-house and sold at steep prices. The shelves are also stocked with wines, vinegars, olive oil, mustard, honey and fancy teas.

The place has the delightful ramshackle character of a cafe decorated with flea-market finds. The high ceiling is painted cobalt blue. Antique birdcages hang from a second-story balcony.

By 11 a.m., the place is beginning to get crowded. A guy in a baseball cap strolls out with a baguette tucked under his arm as if he’s been doing it all his life. Two friends are ensconced in a corner having a late breakfast with respective pots of tea and discussing the final episode of “24.” Others are ordering takeout lunch from the deli counter as cooks emerge from the kitchen with more of the day’s items -- a carrot and apple salad, a rabbit terrine, slabs of quiche Lorraine and pretty chaussons (crescent-shaped puff pastries with savory fillings).

A blackboard lists all the sandwiches, some quite elaborate, but the best are, I think, the classic French jambon au beurre -- pink French ham on a buttered baguette -- or one of the terrines or pates smeared on a baguette. No mustard, no lettuce and tomato. The jambon tastes just like it does in France, but costs more than it does there, even with a weak dollar.

Salads are decent, but not especially enticing, basically grains or lentils flecked with vegetables. Need a quick protein fix? Get two hard-boiled eggs stuffed with harissa-spiked egg yolk.

I watch as customers walk in and sidle up to the pastry case. Not many can resist something sweet. They’re just so pretty with their frills of frosting or shaved chocolate. Someone goes for the trio of creme brulee, someone else for the rhubarb tart with a sugar-dusted lattice crust. The macaroons, though, don’t begin to threaten Michelle Myers’ supremacy at Boule in West Hollywood. And if you manage to make it to the cash register without falling for a pastry, more temptation awaits: French lollipops and chocolate bars.

Breakfast -- need I mention? -- is served until 2 p.m., giving sleepyheads and layabouts plenty of time. Or, if actually getting dressed is too much trouble for you, they do takeout. Call ahead, and they’ll serve you curbside.

virbila@latimes.com

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Little Next Door

Where: 8142 W. 3rd St., L.A.

When: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily

Price: Croissants and morning pastries, $2 to $3; sandwiches, $6 to $9; savory pastries, $3.50 to $5.75; salads, $3 to $4; desserts, $3 to $4.75

Info: (323) 951-1010, www.thelittledoor.com