WHAT LOYAL LOOKS LIKE
THERE was the chic -- knit pencil skirts and Jackie O. shifts in subdued colors. And there was the surreal -- many matching knit pants and tops in Miami-bright blues and corals. But together, the audience for the St. John Spring/Resort 2008 runway show in Orange County created an impromptu retrospective of a 45-year-old company that has weathered some mixed fortunes of its own in middle age.
This was the second season back for founder Marie Gray and her daughter Kelly, who returned as creative consultants 18 months ago after being forced out as the company attempted to woo a younger customer. Sales tumbled, and these days, St. John Knits is back to celebrating its roots, loudly and proudly. A montage featuring great moments in the company’s history kicked off last week’s show at the Performing Artscenter. The only thing louder than the rock music accompanying the video was the applause from the 450 St. John loyalists in the audience.
A whopping 144 looks sailed down the runway -- including dozens of variations on the knit suit: single-breasted, fitted silhouettes favored by the Capitol Hill set, nautical-inspired white jackets with matching shorts and tweed Chanel-inspired numbers paired with shiny, wide-leg pants.
The evening looks were more inspired. Metallic palazzo pants and tunic-length bejeweled jackets had a dreamy, Russian-princess vibe, while a short black frock covered with vertically sewn panels of fabric was a feminine, wearable departure from the long-and-flowy confections sent down on either side of it.
Still, the pieces that shined brightest were the quietest in design: A simple belted Roman tunic-style shift dress, a cream leather jacket with drawstring waist, a solid red day dress and a preppy, khaki shirtdress.
“We never want to forget our customer, but she’s come a long way,” Kelly Gray said after the show. “We took a few risks with this collection, but nothing that would alienate our customers.”
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