A rake’s progress
A man’s life is pretty straightforward -- if you’ve got the goods, you’ll get the gig, the greenbacks and the girl -- so it’s no wonder a whole industry has been built on teaching guys how to pull it together. Add the recent resurgence of the suit and tie as everyday wear, and of course the men’s self-help shelf is grunting. So we’ve done our part and pulled a few of the latest arrivals to see how they stack up.
-- Adam Tschorn
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Esquire’s ‘Big Black Book 2007’
editor in chief
David Granger
Who’s reading: Bond traders, trust funders, Hollywood agents
Must-haves: Burberry trench coat, a two-button cashmere sport jacket by Brunello Cucinelli, handmade shoes by Gucci -- because nothing says disposable income like flashing a luxe Euro label bought with a weak dollar
Don’t-evers: Leaving your shirt untucked (unless it’s a polo or a fitted T-shirt), or wearing a plastic bib with a lobster on it at dinner
Idol: George Clooney
Pointers: Peaked lapels help define the physique; the best cashmere comes from Mongolia and northern China; hydrogen peroxide is good for removing bloodstains
Man-tra: “There will always be occasions in life that require a handwritten note.”
Surprise find: The House of Dior offers a $395 USB jump drive
Gratuitous JFK name-check: Listed as quintessential American sportsman
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‘Details Men’s Style Manual’
by Daniel Peres and the editors
of Details
Who’s reading: Recovering metrosexuals, college graduates
Must-haves: A midnight blue suit, gray trousers and Levi’s 501s because they’re the potatoes of the wardrobe -- they go with anything else you’ve got
Don’t-evers: The Cosby sweater, denim shirts, brass buttons on a navy blazer, rolling up your sleeves
Idol: Jake Gyllenhaal
Pointers: Two fingers should be able to fit between your neck and the collar of a buttoned dress shirt; choose flat-front over pleated trousers; go with cedar shoe trees to extend the life of Oxfords
Man-tra: “If you’re wondering how your cell phone will look clipped to these pants, you should stop reading this book right now.”
Surprising find: There are 85 ways to tie the conventional necktie, kind of like the Kama Sutra
Gratuitous JFK name-check: No. 4 on the list of “sophisticated” well-dressed men -- between Cary Grant and Anderson Cooper
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‘AskMen.com Presents the
Style Bible’
James Bassil, editor
Who’s reading: First-time suit wearers, men who rely on the Internet for style pointers
Must-haves: Black dress shirt, brown dress shoes, short-sleeve polo shirt (just not all at the same time, bucko)
Don’t-evers: The clip-on tie, double-vent jackets for hefty men, or the dry-cleaning of dress shirts (it’s launder-only, Spike)
Idol: Charlie Sheen, post-Denise
Pointers: Buy belts one size bigger than your pant size; light, natural fabrics and dark colors help camouflage a big belly; wash your jeans before hemming them
Man-tra: “Your pocket square is for decorative use only. Don’t use it to wipe your nose.”
Surprising find: A whole section on dressing for the gym (ditch the headband)
Gratuitous JFK name-check: None -- but it declares Thomas Jefferson’s “all men are created equal” line doesn’t apply to body types.
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‘Mistakes Men
Make’
by Daniel Billett
Who’s reading: NASCAR dads, frat boys
Must-haves: Crisp white shirt, a smart blazer, sense of humor
Don’t-evers: The banana hammock, socks with Birkenstocks, diamond-capped dentures
Idol: Kevin Federline
Pointers: Go with the umbrella instead of the anorak; going bald gracefully requires shaving your head; avoid kissing your own biceps in public
Man-tra: “Any cowboy get-up that sparkles in any way is suitable only for children’s costume parties.”
Surprising find: The single best mullet photo ever published
Gratuitous JFK name-check: “Nixon once wore dress socks and shoes with shorts. No one ever caught Kennedy in that get-up.”
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‘Advance Your Swagger’
by Fonzworth Bentley
Who’s reading: Personal assistants
Must-Haves: A corduroy sport jacket, cargo pants, a seven-fold tie and an umbrella (really)
Don’t-evers: Don’t send e-mail in all caps, stab your food or use your “bro” handshake at the office
Idol: Bentley’s former boss Sean “Diddy” Combs
Pointers: The waist of your pants should sit at your natural waistline, always look people in the eye, find a good tailor
Man-tra: “Manners + Confidence + Style = Swagger”
Surprising find: Three pages on how your lady should apply makeup
Gratuitous JFK name-check: Bentley blames the 35th president for the current lack of hat-wearing men.
