THE GLUTTON

On the 5200 block of Melrose, near the Paramount lot, two ethnic eateries that couldn’t be farther apart in decor, cuisine and clientele sit almost side by side.

At Osteria La Buca, a family-run Italian restaurant that recently transformed its shoebox of a space into a two-story, glass-fronted eatery with a cozy fireplace and vast wine bar, it’s nearly impossible to find a dish that isn’t exceptional. The burrata, a bulb of tender mozzarella oozing with cream, makes butter look like a diet food. Their subtly wheat-y, house-made pastas are exceptional. As are the gnocchi, the pizzas, the Battuta Toscana (chicken pounded flat and served with a light sauce of butter and rosemary), the chocolate/pear tart, and . . . well, pretty much everything.

A few doors down, in its neighbor’s literal and metaphorical shadow, Antequera de Oaxaca serves homestyle Oaxacan food (tasajo, chorizo, tortas, tlayudas and snacks known as botanas) in a no-frills atmosphere. Their best dishes are the cecina (thinly pounded pork that’s been rubbed with a spicy, tangy chile paste) followed closely by the memelitas (thick, mini corn tortillas smeared with black beans and sprinkled with squeaky Mexican cheese). The big disappointment was the mole negro, which lacks richness and complexity and has way too much grease.

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-- theguide@latimes.com