THE GLUTTON

Due to hardship, nearly every culture has at some point been forced to use every part of the animal, to transform subpar ingredients into something approaching edible (cabbage stew, offal, casseroles). But the worship of starch is a uniquely Colombian art; a typical meal might feature potatoes, yuca, plantains, rice and arepas -- thick discs of cornmeal (think tortillas on steroids).

For an authentic sampling of Colombia’s starches, the Glutton heads to Chibcha (Silver Lake), named after an indigenous people native to the valleys around Bogota, or La Fonda Antioquena (Hollywood), a much-loved eatery in expanded new digs. Start with an array of appetizers: pastel de yuca (yuca wrapped around meat, then fried) and papas rellenas at Chibcha; empanadas, pan de bono (chewy cheese bread) and chunky, coarsely ground chorizo at La Fonda. Follow this with a bowl of ajiaco, a hearty chicken soup brimming with potatoes and a hunk of corn on the cob (served daily at Chibcha; weekends only at La Fonda).

If you still have room, the Glutton recommends La Fonda’s bandeja paisa: grilled beef and pork, sausage, chicharrons (fried pork rind), rice, beans and a fried egg thrown on top. Wash it down with the malted Colombian soda Pony Malta, or a fruit milkshake like the tart/sweet lulo, made from naranjilla.

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-- theguide@latimes.com