Chiller cookies
FINDING a stash of cookie dough in the refrigerator (OK, even if you put it there yourself) is like discovering a spa gift certificate in your Christmas stocking: It promises near-instant gratification and delicious enjoyment. After all, this season maybe you’ve already cured and roasted a turkey, baked three pies, whipped up a couple of gallons of eggnog and set up a fantastic brunch for the morning-after crowd. Making refrigerator cookies, so fantastically simple, qualifies as kitchen relaxation therapy.
With dough that you’ve already prepared in the freezer or refrigerator, cookies are ready to bake whenever you are. You don’t even have to bake it all at once -- just slice off as much as you need from cylinders of fresh dough.
Slice-’n’-bake cookies may sound like kid fare (and kids can certainly help out), but these sophisticated versions invoke familiar flavors with a twist. Try playing up the cookies’ buttery sweetness with dried apricots and pine nuts, set off with fresh thyme for an unexpected floral note. Chocolate and peanut butter is a classic combination; here the chocolate is bittersweet and the peanut butter chunky. Add chopped peanuts and you get a cookie with fresh, nutty flavor.
Berkeley-based pastry chef Alice Medrich gives a recipe for coffee-walnut cookies in her book “Pure Dessert” that’s wonderfully elegant, the walnuts ground up with the flour for a fine texture, plus freshly ground coffee beans for a pleasantly bitter edge. A single whole bean crowns each delicate wafer.
“Sometimes I even make a roll of cookies and give it to someone as a gift,” Medrich says. “It’s just the easiest way to make cookies if you’re pressed for time or doing other things.”
Whatever ingredients you choose -- nuts, fruit or chocolate -- make sure to chop them finely so that the dough will not tear when it is sliced. Once mixed, the soft dough needs to be thoroughly chilled in order to cut neat cookies. The dough can be kept in the refrigerator for as long as a week, then frozen for as long as three months. If straight from the freezer, let the dough soften slightly for about 10 minutes before slicing (they might need a couple of additional minutes in the oven).
Perfectly shaped
When you’re ready to bake, take one cylinder of dough at a time from the fridge. Time and heat are the enemies of a neat refrigerator cookie, so work quickly to avoid letting the dough soften. Slice it into cookies about one-quarter-inch thick, using a sharp knife and a sawing motion and rotating each log slightly as you go so it doesn’t get flattened on one side. If the dough starts to soften despite your speedy maneuvering, don’t panic -- just pop it back in the fridge until it firms up again.
Having worked so hard to preserve the perfect cookie shape, don’t just toss the raw cookies onto a bare baking pan. The cookies color beautifully and retain those sharp edges best when baked on a silicone pan liner (such as Silpat), The Times’ test kitchen found in a test of shaped cookies last year.
Once baked, the cookies keep well in an airtight container for up to a month. And when they run out, just take more dough out of the freezer, or mix up a new batch. Easy as pie? Much, much easier.
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Coffee-walnut cookies
Total time: 1 hour, plus overnight chilling time
Servings: Makes about 5 1/2 dozen cookies
Note: Adapted from “Pure Dessert” by Alice Medrich
2 cups flour
1 cup walnuts
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons fresh, finely ground medium-roast (not espresso-roast) coffee beans, plus about 70 whole beans for garnish
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) butter
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon brandy
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1. Combine the flour, walnuts, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the walnuts are finely ground. Add the ground coffee and pulse to mix. Add the butter (cut in several pieces if firm) and pulse until the mixture looks damp and crumbly. Drizzle in the brandy and vanilla extract and pulse until the dough begins to clump up around the blade. Remove the dough, press it into a ball and knead it by hand a few times to complete the mixing.
2. Form the dough into a 12-inch log about 2 inches in diameter. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or preferably, overnight, or up to 3 days. The dough can also be frozen for up to 3 months.
3. Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Use a sharp knife to cut the cold dough log into one-fourth-inch-thick slices. (If the dough crumbles when you cut into it, let it soften for several minutes.) Place the cookies at least 1 inch apart on silicone-lined baking sheets. Press a coffee bean into the center of each cookie.
4. Bake the cookies until light golden brown at the edges, 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through the baking. Let the cookies firm up on the pans for about 1 minute, then transfer them to a rack with an offset spatula. Cool completely. These cookies are delicious fresh but are even better the next day. They can be stored in an airtight container for at least a month.
Each cookie: 56 calories; 1 gram protein; 5 grams carbohydrates;
0 fiber; 3 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 6 mg. cholesterol;
9 mg. sodium.
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Apricot butter cookies
Total time: 1 hour, plus overnight chilling
Servings: Makes about 5 1/2 dozen
Note: From test kitchen director Donna Deane
1/2 cup pine nuts
2 1/2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup butter
1 1/4 cups confectioners sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme
1 cup finely chopped dried apricots
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Toast the pine nuts on a baking sheet in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes, or until very lightly browned. Let cool, finely chop, then set aside.
2. In a small bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Set aside. In a standing mixer or in a medium bowl with an electric mixer, beat the butter until light and creamy. Beat in the sugar until blended. Beat in the egg and vanilla.
3. Beat in the flour and salt until thoroughly combined. Beat in the thyme, apricots and pine nuts until evenly mixed.
4. Divide the dough in half. Shape each half of the dough into a log about 9 inches long. Make the logs as smooth and even as possible. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, waxed paper or aluminum foil. Twist the ends to seal. Repeat with the second half of the dough. Chill the cookie logs in the refrigerator overnight.
5. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Unwrap the logs and cut each log into one-fourth-inch thick slices. Place slices on silicone-lined baking sheets. Bake 12 to 13 minutes until lightly browned around edges. Remove cookies to a wire rack to cool. Store the cookies in an airtight container.
Each cookie: 64 calories; 1 gram protein; 7 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 4 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 11 mg. cholesterol; 10 mg. sodium.
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Peanut and bittersweet chocolate cookies
Total time: 1 hour, plus overnight chilling time
Servings: Makes 5 1/2 dozen cookies
Note: From Donna Deane
1 1/4 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold butter
1/2 cup chunky peanut butter
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup finely chopped peanuts
1 cup finely chopped bittersweet chocolate
1. In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
2. Beat the butter until creamy in a stand mixer or in a medium bowl using a hand mixer. Beat in the peanut butter until blended. Beat in the sugar and brown sugar until light and fluffy.
3. Beat the egg and vanilla into the sugar mixture until blended. Add flour mixture and beat until thoroughly mixed. Then stir in the chopped peanuts and chocolate until evenly incorporated.
4. Divide the dough in half. Shape it into two logs about 9 inches long and wrap each log in plastic wrap, waxed paper or aluminum foil. Twist ends to seal. Chill in the refrigerator overnight.
5. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Unwrap the logs and cut into one-fourth-inch-thick slices. Place the slices on silicone-lined baking sheets, and bake 10 to 13 minutes until lightly browned around the edges. Remove the cookies to a wire rack to cool. Store the cookies in an airtight container.
Each cookie: 66 calories;
1 gram protein; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 5 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 7 mg. cholesterol; 38 mg. sodium.