A tradition of experimenting
Even professional chefs get the Thanksgiving Day jitters. Just ask Quinn and Karen Hatfield, the couple who own Hatfield’s restaurant (he’s the chef, she’s the pastry chef) and the recently opened Sycamore Kitchen.
“I feel like I forget how to cook a turkey every year,” says Quinn, who’s inclined to prepare it differently each time: roasted; grilled; the legs removed, deboned and rolled into a roulade stuffed with foie gras or chorizo; butterflied; deep-fried.
This year it’s smoked turkeys (a couple of Willie Birds ordered from Harvey’s Guss), prepared on his Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker, a Father’s Day gift from Karen, their 2-year-old son, Bennett, and 5-year-old daughter, Paige.
Also on the holiday menu: a potato and mushroom gratin layered with bechamel and goat cheese and topped with a flaky pastry crust, cherry-pear mostarda for the turkey, roasted squash and Karen’s pumpkin pie with browned-butter-pecan-and-pepita streusel.
Smoking the turkey is a preemptive maneuver on Quinn’s part. “Cooking out of the house frees up kitchen space,” he says. “I’m a big proponent of not fighting over the oven.”
No matter how he cooks the turkey, it is always brined, Quinn says, with a mixture of water, salt, brown sugar, garlic, peppercorns, rosemary and thyme. “Brine is critical,” Quinn says. “It helps get that beautiful color and absorb the smoke flavor.”
His brining tip: Place the turkey in a bucket filled with brine, then top it with ice so it doesn’t have to go into the refrigerator. “Trying to find room for a bucket in the refrigerator is impossible, and we have a big fridge.” (The same brine, by the way, is used before roasting the turkey breasts at the Sycamore Kitchen for Karen’s excellent turkey sandwiches.)
The gratin, warm and rich and cheesy, is a throwback to the Hatfields’ early Thanksgivings, back when they used portobellos instead of maitake mushrooms. “One of our best Thanksgiving Days was in a tiny New York apartment after getting off of work at Jean-Georges, crammed with people, with no ventilation, so we’d have to open the windows but it’d be freezing outside,” says Karen.
Since then they’ve moved into a house in the lush hills of Laurel Canyon, and this Thanksgiving it’s a tossup between hosting dinner on their patio or, as is tradition, heading to the Pacific Palisades home of Karen’s parents. “It’s great, two chefs doing the cooking,” says Karen’s dad, Larry Friedman. “But I’m the one dishwasher.”
On the Hatfields’ kitchen counter is a recent farmers market score: a pile of confection and kabocha squashes from Weiser Farms for roasting with honey, sherry vinegar, a little chile de arbol, rosemary and black pepper until the cut edges are browned and slightly curled.
“Kabocha is my favorite,” says Quinn. “You can make it savory; you can use it in dessert. It has a deeper flavor. And you can eat the skin.”
Karen always makes extra desserts. Being chefs, “we don’t know how to cook for just six,” she says. “And we don’t hold back.”
The same dough that tops the gratin can be used for an apple galette. Cut the dough into a desired shape, top it with thinly sliced apples and brush them with jam, then bake.
Her piece de resistance might be the pumpkin pie. “I never make the same pumpkin pie recipe twice. But this one we’ve been doing on weekends at the Sycamore Kitchen, so I’m kind of fond of it.” Her crust is among the flakiest. She says it all comes down to technique. All of her pie dough is mixed by hand (no food processor), folding and rolling the butter in, almost like a rough puff pastry dough. “It can make a mess, but once you’re in the habit of doing it, it yields a more flaky, delicate crust. Doing it by hand is the only way you can get a feel for what you’re doing.
“I’m always looking for the perfect pumpkin pie recipe,” not too sweet with a dark crust (“brown is good”), “not too much spice but a little is nice, the right texture -- not too firm, not too soft.”
She cuts into her pumpkin pie, revealing a custardy interior and layers of flaky, golden-brown crust. This one might be it.
--
--
(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)
Smoked, brined turkey
Quinn Hatfield uses a Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker. Brine the turkey for 36 hours, then air-dry it for at least an hour before smoking.
Half fill the charcoal basket with briquettes. Add one handful of applewood chips and mix it in with the charcoal (turkey takes on smoky flavors well, so you don’t need to use a lot of chips).
Fill the starter chimney halfway with briquettes and light. Once completely lit, pour them on top of the other coals and fill the water tray. Adjust vents in the smoker to hold the temperature at 300 to 325 degrees.
Place the turkey in the smoker and cook until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees, about 1 hour for every 4 pounds of turkey; this can vary widely (a 10-pound turkey took only 2 hours to cook). For a larger bird or piece of meat, consider using a remote thermometer with an alarm that will notify you when the turkey is done.
-- Betty Hallock
--
Turkey brine
9 quarts water
1 1/2 cups light brown sugar
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
12 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 small bunch rosemary
1 small bunch thyme
Whisk the water, brown sugar, salt, garlic, peppercorns, rosemary and thyme together in a container large enough to hold the brine and turkey. Add the turkey and brine for 36 hours. Remove the turkey and air dry well before smoking (at least 1 hour).
--
Cherry-pear mostarda
Total time: 25 minutes
Servings: Makes a generous 1 1/2 quarts
Note: Dried pears can be found in most well-stocked and gourmet markets, as well as online. Pickled mustard seeds are available at select gourmet markets and online.
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
1 1/2 cups finely diced onion (from about 1 large onion)
4 cups (about 20 ounces) dried tart cherries, chopped
2 1/2 cups water
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup (about 4 ounces) diced dried pear
3/4 cup whole grain mustard
2 tablespoons pickled mustard seeds, optional
In a large saucepan heated over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and sweat until tender, stirring frequently, about 6 minutes. Stir in the cherries, water and sugar, and cook until the cherries are softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the pears and continue to cook for 1 minute to soften slightly. Remove from heat, stir in the mustard and mustard seeds, if using, and set aside to cool completely. The mostarda will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.
Each tablespoon: 42 calories; 0 protein; 8 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 1 gram fat; 0 saturated fat; 2 mg cholesterol; 6 grams sugar; 45 mg sodium.
--
Weiser Farms roasted squash
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes, plus cooling time
Servings: 10
Note: In downsizing this dish for the home kitchen, the recipe calls for a single type of squash. If increasing or doubling the recipe, the Hatfields recommend using a variety of squash, of various sizes and colors, to arrange on a large platter.
1/2 cup honey
1/4 sherry vinegar
1 kabocha or butternut squash (about 3 pounds), seeded and cut into 10 wedges
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 to 1 crumbled chile de arbol, or as desired
1 small rosemary sprig, torn
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet or roasting pan with foil and top with a cooling or roasting rack.
2. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the honey and vinegar. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and simmer for 5 minutes to thicken slightly. Remove from heat and set aside until cool enough to handle. This makes more honey-vinegar mixture than is needed for the remainder of the recipe; the mixture can be used in vinaigrettes and marinades and will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.
3. In a large bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the honey-vinegar mixture with the squash wedges, the oil, crumbled chile, rosemary and one-fourth teaspoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper, or to taste, tossing well. Place the squash pieces on the rack over the prepared baking sheet.
4. Roast the squash until golden-brown and the flesh is tender when pierced with a knife, 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the type of squash and thickness of the wedges.
Each serving: 83 calories; 1 gram protein; 18 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 2 grams fat; 0 saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams sugar; 63 mg sodium.
--
Pumpkin pie with pecan brown butter streusel
Total time: 21/2 hours, plus chilling and cooling times
Servings: 8
Pie dough
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup plus 31/2 tablespoons water
2 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons (12 ounces) flour
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) plus 3 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) cold lard or shortening, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1. In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the salt and cold water until the salt is dissolved. Place the mixture in the freezer for 10 minutes to chill.
2. Meanwhile, on a large, flat surface, spread the flour into a fairly large rectangle about one-fourth-inch thick. Place the butter and lard cubes on top and sprinkle a little of the flour over the fat so the pieces do not stick when worked.
2. Use a rolling pin to press down on the cubes, flattening them and rolling over them, to create sheets of fat. Using a bench scraper, gather the flour and butter sheets together and repeat to continue flattening the butter. Eventually the butter and flour will begin to look like dried-out flakes of paint.
3. Gather the mixture together again into a pile, and form a well in the center. Pour the cold salt water in the center of the well. Slowly incorporate the flour and butter sheets into the well, working gently so the water does not escape. Continue working just until the mixture comes together to form a dough. The dough will look a little dry at first but, once chilled, will come together.
4. Form the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill the dough for at least 2 hours.
Brown butter pecan streusel
1/2 cup pecans
1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (4.67 ounces) flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Generous 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
Generous 1/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch cinnamon
1. Toast the pecans: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until lightly browned and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove and set aside until cool enough to handle, then chop.
2. Brown the butter: In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter and cook until the water evaporates and the butter solids turn a rich golden-brown (they will sink to the bottom of the pan). Whisk or stir the butter frequently as it cooks so it browns evenly. Remove from heat and pour into a measuring cup or bowl. Set aside to cool slightly.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon and chopped toasted pecans. Drizzle over the cooled butter. Mix well to combine. Scatter onto a rimmed baking sheet and set aside to cool. Crumble before using.
Pumpkin pie with pecan brown butter streusel
Prepared pie dough
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground clove
1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 eggs
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
Prepared streusel topping
2 tablespoons shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees.
2. Place the unwrapped dough on a lightly floured surface and roll to a thickness of just over one-eighth-inch thick and about 14 inches in diameter. Place the dough into a 9-inch pie dish, pressing the dough so it fits neatly in the dish. Trim any excess dough and mold the edges (discard the excess, or save it for another use).
3. Par-bake the crust: Line the dough with parchment or foil and fill with pie weights. Place the dough in the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes to set up the crust. Remove the pie weights and liner and continue to bake an additional 5 minutes to set the center of the crust. Remove the crust and reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.
4. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine cornstarch, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, dark and light brown sugars, ginger, vanilla, eggs and evaporated milk. Sift the cornstarch mixture into the wet ingredients and stir to combine.
5. Pour the filling into the par-baked crust. Place the pie in the center of the oven and bake until the custard is almost set but not completely baked through, about 45 to 50 minutes. Sprinkle a layer of streusel topping over the pie (you may not use all of the topping), along with the pumpkin seeds. Continue baking until the custard is completely set (it will shake like firm jelly when tapped), and remove to a rack. Cool completely before serving.
Each of 8 servings: 842 calories; 13 grams protein; 92 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 48 grams fat; 27 grams saturated fat; 156 mg cholesterol; 43 grams sugar; 660 mg sodium.
--
Potato and mushroom goat cheese gratin en croute
Total time: 2 hours, 20 minutes, plus chilling time for the dough
Servings: 8 to 10
Note: This recipe calls for a 31/2- to 4-quart oven-safe pan or rondeau.
Galette dough
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup water
1 1/4 cups plus 3 tablespoons (6 ounces) flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1. Cut the butter into thick pieces (about 2 tablespoons each) and place in the freezer for 10 minutes to harden slightly. In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the salt and water until the salt is dissolved. Place the mixture in the freezer for 10 minutes to chill.
2. Meanwhile, on a large, flat surface, spread the flour into a fairly large rectangle about one-fourth inch thick. Place the cold butter pieces on top, and sprinkle a little of the flour on top of each piece.
3. Use a rolling pin to press down on the pieces of butter, flattening them and rolling over them, to create sheets of fat. Use a bench scraper to gather the flour and butter sheets together and repeat to continue flattening the butter. Eventually, the butter and flour will begin to look like dried-out flakes of paint.
4. Gather the mixture again into a pile, and form a well in the center. Pour the cold salt water in the center of the well, along with the sugar. Slowly incorporate the flour and butter sheets into the well, working from the outside of the flour pile with the bench scraper and watching that the water does not escape from the well. Continue working just until the mixture comes together to form a dough. The dough will look a little dry at first but, once chilled, will come together.
5. Form the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill the dough for at least 2 hours.
Potato and mushroom goat cheese gratin en croute
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons butter, divided
1/2 pound maitake mushrooms
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
9 medium baking potatoes, peeled
3/4 cup (3.2 ounces) flour
5 cups milk, at room temperature
4 ounces fresh goat cheese
1 teaspoon sage
Prepared galette dough
Prepared egg wash (1 egg yolk plus 1 tablespoon cream, whisked together)
1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. To cook the potatoes, fill a large stockpot halfway with water and bring to a boil, and lightly salt the water.
2. Meanwhile, heat a saute pan over medium-high heat until hot. Melt 2 tablespoons butter, then add the mushrooms. Saute the mushrooms in the butter until softened and lightly colored, about 6 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and remove from heat, placing the mushrooms in a bowl.
3. In a large saucepan, melt the remaining three-fourths cup butter over medium-low heat. Add the flour and whisk to create a roux; continue to cook gently for a few minutes until it begins to turn a blond color. While whisking, gradually add the milk to form the bechamel, careful to beat smooth any lumps. Continue whisking until the bechamel sauce comes to a gentle simmer and begins to thicken. Simmer very gently, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, add the goat cheese and sage, and whisk until smooth. Season with a generous one-fourth teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon pepper, or to taste. Keep the sauce in a warm place; if it gets too thick, add some milk to achieve a pourable consistency.
4. Slice the potatoes into disks about one-third-inch thick using a mandolin or knife. Add the potatoes to the pot of boiling water and allow it to return to a simmer. Lower the heat and gently simmer until the potatoes are still a bit firm in the center, about 5 minutes; drain in a large colander.
5. Place a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a 31/2- to 4-quart pan or rondeau, and spoon some bechamel over just to cover. Place the sauteed maitake mushrooms over the layer of bechamel. Add another layer of potatoes, topping that with enough bechamel to cover completely.
6. On a lightly floured surface, roll the galette dough to a disk wide enough to cover the gratin in the pan, about one-half-inch thick. Place the galette dough over the bechamel sauce, and brush with the egg wash. Slice a few vent holes in the dough.
7. Place the pan in the oven and bake until the filling is bubbly and the top is a nice golden-brown, about 1 hour. Set the gratin on a rack to cool 10 minutes before serving.
Each of 10 servings: 594 calories; 14 grams protein; 60 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 34 grams fat; 21 grams saturated fat; 106 mg cholesterol; 9 grams sugar; 185 mg sodium.
