N.Y. Fashion Week: Marc by Marc Jacobs, back on the map

Los Angeles Times Fashion Critic

NEW YORK -- And just like that, Marc by Marc Jacobs is cool again.

For their debut, Brit “It” girl designers Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier showed a brash, Riot Grrrl/punk/ninja-themed collection that put Jacobs’ flailing secondary line back on the map.

In recent years, Marc by Marc had devolved into a watered-down, fashion-irrelevant department store brand. So Jacobs hired Bartley and Hillier as creative directors to give the label a new direction. And they did just that, mixing a ‘90s-era agitprop vibe (Riot Grrrls meets Pussy Riot) with action sports clothing.

The look: Judo jackets, motocross T-shirts and wrap-around obi trousers worn with platform BMX-style sneakers. Body suits and jeans with ‘90s-era feminist punk slogans such as, “Revolution,” “Grrrl” and “Twisted.” Pleated tulle party skirts worn with jackets or capelets with oversized, sculpted bows.


The verdict: Edgy, brash and cool. Way to shake up the runways, Grrrls!


More from New York Fashion Week

Billy Reid puts a bird on it - and some foxes too


Rodarte’s celestial season - with a ‘Star Wars’ finale