It was a treasured collection of antique kimonos that inspired Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton's spring collection shown Tuesday night at Paris Fashion Week.
That translated into a modern geisha look of kimono-style jackets and coats worn over flared trousers in bold red, white and black florals. Dresses bound in black taping had plunging necklines, or caped long sleeves and short skirts, and were decorated with floral spheres or kite prints. And evening gowns bloomed with embroidered cherry blossoms, ruffles and petals, confined in cage-like bodices.
Everything was impressively made, but that was about it. There was not much emotion or energy. Burton seemed more driven by technique than figuring out what a woman might want to wear next.