PARIS -- Haider Ackermann, who presented his spring-summer 2013 collection Saturday morning at Paris Fashion Week, knows how to set a romantic scene. A single crackling overhead light at the top of the runway, spoken word and jazz on the soundtrack, and models walking ever slowly in clothes that look like they are dripping off their bodies. It’s no wonder his pal Tilda Swinton is so devoted.
The look: Sexy as hell. East meets West, masculine meets feminine. Lush silk layers and liquid-like tailoring. Languid silk evening suits, robes and off-the-shoulder blouses. A black smoking jacket with a single lapel. Trousers pooling at the ankles. Tweedy jackets with wide leather, obi-style belts over diamond and dot foulard print silk cigarette pants worn with sky-high heels. Silk and lace slip dresses, barely clinging to the body, with trailing hems over pants. A menswear-inspired palette of black, navy and burgundy. Stripes, diamond, dot and zigzag prints.
The verdict: Poetic.