How <i>khao yam</i> comes together

Chef Suthiporn “Tui” Sungkame makes the sauce, which simmers at least four hours and is based on budu] (fermented anchovy sauce). Co-chef/owner Sarintip “Jazz” Singsanong says the complexity of her brother’s sauce is what sets Jitlada’s khao yam apart.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For The Times)

Singsanong toasts sweetened grated coconut, which will garnish the salad.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

Singsanong and Sungkamee use a special tool to partially peel cucumber; it leaves a decorative edge when Sungkamee slices it. (You can also use a peeler or run a fork down the side of the cucumber for a similar effect.) The two chefs julienne carrots and mango and thinly slice lemongrass, cabbage, string beans.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

Kaffir lime leaves (foreground) are cut into fine chiffonade. Kaffir limes (top left) go into the sauce; regular limes garnish the salad.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

Ingredients are prepared before the salad is assembled. Clockwise, from bottom left: dried shrimp (these are ground in a food processor or spice mill before using); toasted coconut; julienned mango; Thai chilis; ground dried shrimp; kaffir lime leaves; sliced green beans; julienned carrots (center).  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

All ingredients ready, Singsanong arranges green beans, carrots, cabbage, mango, lemon grass, cucumber, bean sprouts and carrot around steamed jasmine rice that has been unmolded onto the serving platter.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

Ground dried shrimp, toasted coconut, chili powder and kaffir lime leaf chiffonade cover the rice. A wedge of lime garnishes the plate, and it’s ready to go to the table. Sliced Thai chilis are served on the side.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

At the table, sauce is spooned on, lime is squeezed over and it’s carefully tossed all together.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

The tossed kao yam, ready to serve.  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)