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Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo in Santa Monica

The tonnarelli all'Amatriciana at Uovo may just be the best dish of its kind in town.

The tonnarelli all’Amatriciana at Uovo may just be the best dish of its kind in town.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times )

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Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo

Tonnarelli alle vongole at the new pasta-focused restaurant Uovo near the Santa Monica Promenade.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times )

Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo

Tortellini in creama di parmigiano at the new pasta-focused restaurant Uovo near the Santa Monica Promenade.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo

Tonnarelli cacio e pepe at the new pasta-focused restaurant Uovo near the Santa Monica Promenade.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo

The culinary team at pasta-focused restaurant Uovo, from left, Gianni Pucci, Carlo Massimini, Lowell Sharron, Lele Massimini and Pino Mastrangel. Not pictured: Stefania Randi and Jerry Greenberg.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo

Santa Monica’s Uovo pares the Italian dining experience to the bare essentials: no appetizers or bread, just plenty of pasta.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Uovo

Uovo is located near the Santa Monica promenade.

  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

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