Chef Alberto Lazzarino in the kitchen of Osteria La Buca on Melrose Avenue. He started in L.A. at Mauro Vincenti’s Rex and Alto Palato, then cooked at Piccolo Ristorante in Venice before opening Melograno in Hollywood. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
The charming Alejandro Zorro, who speaks Italian, waits tables at Osteria La Buca. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
There’s a downstairs bar and upstairs dining area at Osteria La Buca. The expanded La Buca has an urban feel, with brick walls and wine-bottle chandeliers. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Pizza Ciccolina, with pancetta and arugula, comes on a thin crust. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Battuto (pounded chicken breast) is tender and moist. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Osteria La Buca includes a reasonably priced wine list. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
With a red neon sign now, you can’t miss the restaurant on Melrose. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
