A serving of seafood curry at OShan Island. A food writer in The Times says the restaurant’s curry base is rendered in the Singapore-Malay style -- that is, spiked with a blast of cumin-chile curry powder and mellowed with a bit of coconut milk. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Here’s OShan Island’s Hainan beef dry noodle dish. The restaurant’s menu -- Singapore-style curries, plates of Hong Kong-style spaghetti and steamy bowls of rice noodles -- mirrors what’s going on in Hainan’s kitchens today. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Mei Li’s curry-making skills put OShan Island on food writer Linda Burum’s must-return list. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
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The restaurant’s Hainan chicken -- free-range birds are poached to a gentle tenderness -- surely belongs on the passionately debated list of contenders for the city’s best, writer Linda Burum says. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Rarely is Hainan chicken done as well, or as traditionally, as at OShan Island, Linda Burum asserts. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
