
The Gorbals is often referred to as a Scottish-Jewish restaurant, but it’s more than that. Call it global immigrant cuisine. Or perhaps post-garage-band-performance dinner spread. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

The dining room might seem a bit makeshift (customers sit at the bar on upended wooden crates), but that just makes the Gorbals seem weird and fun, if a little rough around the edges. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

Matzoh balls wrapped in bacon. Kosher it isn’t, but it’s typical of Hall’s cross-cultural food mash-ups. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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Bone marrow with oyster mushrooms. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

The GLT: a gribenes (fried chicken skin), lettuce and tomato sandwich. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

The sticky toffee pudding seems more cake than pudding, served with espresso ice cream and a touch of Maldon salt. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

Ilan Hall extends a hand to a customer. In New York, the chef worked for Tom Colicchio at Craft and for Mario Batali at Casa Mono. At his new L.A. restaurant, he goes decidedly his own way. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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The Gorbals is at 501 S. Spring St. in downtown Los Angeles. (213) 488-3408, www.thegorbalsla.com. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)