Baby-back spare ribs known as kuah gling kra dook moo. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Lum-Kaa-Naad serves a grilled fish curry sauce in banana leaf wrapper, called pla pling. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Lunch at Lum-Kaa-Naad brings in both new and returning customers. Veterans often don’t shy from the truly hot dishes, knowing they can mitigate the fire by eating small bites with other dishes. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Kuah gling with chicken is one of many signature dishes served at the San Fernando Valley Thai restaurant. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
