Line cook Christian Ramirez, left, and sous-chef Jason Liu prepare a platter at the raw bar. (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
Soft-shell crab with fried tempura on a bed of jasmine rice with Singapore chile sauce. (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
The peel ‘n’ eat shrimp is marinated. (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
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Restaurant patrons are reflected in the glass that separates customers from the raw bar. (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
Marinated hamachi with stone fruit, shiso, ginger, togarashi and spicy oil. (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
A lobster and sea urchin rest on a bed of ice at the raw bar. (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
Clockwise from left, Greg Behr; his wife, Patty Behr; Denise Di Novi; and her husband,