Centeno does prep work at Orsa & Winston, which offers Italian- and Japanese-inspired fine dining. “Prepping is therapeutic,” the chef says. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Centeno peels Cape gooseberries at a table of ingredients. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Red gooseberries are among the more unusual produce that Chef Centeno uses in his restaurant. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Squash blossoms for a dish at Orsa & Winston. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Sous-vide scarlet radish is layered with house-made goat ricotta, radish greens and black truffle. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Centeno makes egg and beef cheek ravioli at Orsa & Winston. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Centeno checks emails on his phone just outside the kitchen at Bar Amá, which focuses on Tex-Mex flavors. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
A puffy taco shell emerges from a deep fryer. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
A photo of Centeno’s grandmother, the inspiration behind many of the dishes at Bar Amá, hangs inside the restaurant. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Centeno looks out onto 4th Street from Bar Amá. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
Centeno walks over to Bäco Mercat, known for its signature flatbread sandwiches. Centeno also lives in the area, the old bank district in downtown L.A. (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)
