Owner Ana Velasquez looking through the ordering window at El Santiagueño restaurant in downtown Los Angeles, considered the starting point for a Salvadoran gourmet movement.
RELATED: Beyond the pupusas: El Salvadorean restaurants in and around L.A. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Nora de Aquino cooks pupusas and mojarra frita at El Santiagueño. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Everything is cooked to order at El Santiagueño, which has a sunny patio. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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Pacaya, palm flowers cooked in the typical style of a relleno, fried in an egg batter, is on the menu at El Santiagueño in downtown Los Angeles. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Sopa de pescado -- fish soup -- on the menu at El Santiagueño. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Mis Raices in Reseda. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
If you go to Mis Raices, make sure you say hello to Carlos Rodriguez, son of owner Mercedes Rodriguez. Here, he holds a payaca dish on the menu at Mis Raices, where it is served with a wedge of cheese, rice and beans. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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A closer look at that pacaya dish. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Flor de izote -- an egg and plaintain dish -- on the menu at Mis Raices. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
With the opening of a second location four months ago, Sonsonate Grill of Los Angeles has developed a following among tourists following L.A.’s culinary scene. (Mariah Tauger / For the Los Angeles Times)
The parrillada Salvadorena dish at Sonsonate Grill includes grilled chicken, grilled shrimp, steak, rice and a salad. (Mariah Tauger / For the Los Angeles Times)
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From left, Regia and Suprema beers at Sonsonate Grill. (Mariah Tauger / For the Los Angeles Times)