Jonathan Gold reviews Chong Qing Special Noodles

Sliceed pig ears with chile oil is served cold at Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel.

The cold display case at Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel features items such as braised beef and sliced pig ears.

The Chongqing noodles with an egg, meat and bok choy served in a hearty bowl at the Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel.

Fried chicken with chiles at the Chong Qing Special Noodles Chinese noodle shop in San Gabriel.

Steam rises from the handmade noodles in the Biang Biang dish at Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel.

Sliced beef is served Sichuan style at the Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel.

A bowl of dandan mian noodles with bok choy at the Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel.

Tucked into a street side shopping center, Chong Qing Special Noodles serves up spicy Chinese food in San Gabriel.

Zhen Hai Zhang runs the woks in the kitchen at Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel.