Pisco Sour. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Ceviche criollo. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Picca chef-owner Ricardo Zarate works in the restaurant’s kitchen. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
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Papa rellena. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
A waiter takes an order. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Empanada trio: beef, chicken and eggplant. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
A blackboard with the daily special hangs above the open kitchen at Picca. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
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Churros with dipping sauces. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)