Deciderio Mauricio Cantera squeezes through lanes of idling cars inching toward the San Ysidro Port of Entry, wearing a stack of sombreros and holding a basket of churros. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
Reflected in a car window, Mauricio watches a toddler and her grandmother munch on fresh churros he just sold them. Each bag goes for $1.50. When the woman gave him $2, he gave her another bag instead of change. “You’re lucky. They’re on sale today,” quipped Mauricio. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
Mauricio, 59, greets a vendor selling painted ceramic turtles. There are about 500 licensed vendors permitted to sell souvenirs and snacks to motorists waiting to cross into the United States. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
Mauricio deep fries churros in a propane-fueled cart at the U.S.-Mexico border crossing in Tijuana. He is known as “El Churrero” -- the Churro Man. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
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Mauricio sells a bag of churros to a motorist. He used his modest profits from decades of selling on the streets to build a house and send three daughters to college and trade schools. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
Mauricio greets his friend and fellow vendor Antonio Contrarez. Paralyzed since an accident at age 5, Contrarez pushes himself between traffic lanes on a handmade scooter, selling packets of gum and candy. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
Mauricio is up and working just after sunrise. Over the years, Mauricio has peddled Popsicles, pumpkin piñatas, checkered blankets and flowery ceramic vases. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
Mauricio walks between dozens of lanes of traffic at the border crossing. He’s been hawking trinkets and treats here for more than 40 years. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)