Gus’s Barbecue

Hannah Geddis, 30, savors Memphis-style baby back ribs at Gus’s.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

David Cooper savors a beer-braised Texas brisket sandwich at Gus’s.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

The new owners of Gus’s Barbecue, Chris Bicos, left, and his brother John, in their South Pasadena restaurant.  (Stefano Paltera / For The Los Angeles Times)

Susan Price shows off Gus’s famous burger, left, and Memphis-style baby back ribs. Both are Gus’s Barbecue specialties. Gus’s was listed as one of the best barbecue joints in the country by Open Table.   (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Gus’s famous burger is topped with cheddar cheese, applewood smoked bacon, shredded onion strings and a mixture of Gus’s barbecue sauce and roasted garlic aioli.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Gus’s BBQ sliders are three mini cheeseburgers with cheddar, shredded onion strings, Gus’s barbecue sauce and roasted garlic aioli.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Shredded onion strings are among the starters.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Cast iron cornbread, made with sweet Pennsylvanian corn and served with a side of jalapeno jelly.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Southern smokehouse chili: Nebraska Angus topped with cheddar cheese, diced red onion and pickled jalapenos.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Red velvet cake, a triple-layered Southern favorite.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Gus’s mosaic greets customers at the front door.  (Stefano Paltera / For The Los Angeles Times)

The original sign was preserved during a renovation of Gus’s, which started in October and finished this spring.  (Stefano Paltera / For The Los Angeles Times)