Uncooked to perfection

Chef Michael Reardon of Catch restaurant in Santa Monica puts the finishing touches on a crudo dish.  (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)

Some of the ingredients used to accent crudo, an Italian-inspired presentation of raw fish.  (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)

At Catch, the new restaurant at Santa Monica’s beachfront Hotel Casa del Mar, crudo is the centerpiece of chef Michael Reardon’s appetizer menu.  (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)

Il Grano chef/owner Salvatore Marino displays his Fantasia di Crudo plate.  (Stephen Osman / Los Angeles Times)

The Fantasia di Crudo plate at Il Grano one day featured, clockwise from top right, fluke, yellowtail, Italian bluefin tuna, octopus, sea bass, halibut and scallop.  (Stephen Osman / Los Angeles Times)

Up close, the octopus, left, and Italian bluefin tuna from Il Grano’s Fantasia Di Crudo plate.  (Stephen Osman / Los Angeles Times)

Yellowtail crudo with peach slices at Il Grano restaurant in West Los Angeles.  (Stephen Osman / Los Angeles Times)

Yellowtail crudo with arugula salad and peach dressing at Il Grano.  (Stephen Osman / Los Angeles Times)

Albacore crudo with caper berries.  (Carlos Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Tuna with sweet and sour sauce.  (Carlos Chavez / Los Angeles Times)