Desperate times?

It seems as though Los Angeles is suffering a bad case of reservations runaround. Whether it’s a coveted 8 o’clock table at a hot new spot on a Saturday night or a 7 o’clock table on a Tuesday at a spot where the in-crowd has gone elsewhere, it’s harder than it should be to get the reservation you want. So what strategies do those wielders of table power -- restaurant managers -- suggest? Not much. Or not much that’s practical, anyway.

Here’s what they, and others, had to offer.

* Just show up at the time you want. That’s what Katsuya manager Matt Erickson suggested. Of course, that’s risky; maybe they are really booked. And if you’re meeting friends from across town, you’re all taking a chance; everyone might go hungry.

* Insist on speaking with a manager. It’s pushy, it’s offensive, but it’s another of Erickson’s suggestions, and in many cases it’ll probably work.

* Pretend you’re a Hollywood publicist. That’s what one Los Angeles attorney says she has resorted to, and she says it works.

* Reserve several days in advance. D’oh. Two managers actually suggested this. But what difference does it make if the restaurant’s not even busy?

* Ingratiate yourself with the maitre d’ or manager. If you’re a regular and tip well, you might be able to book a table with him or her. Some have cards printed with a direct number.

* Ask for a time you don’t want. Then maybe you’ll be offered a time you do want.

-- Leslie Brenner