Canoeing in Sylvania

A smallmouth bass is held before its release from a canoe in 2010 in the Sylvania Wilderness in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.   (Andrew Johnston/Chicago Tribune)

Bob Zelinski, owner of Sylvania Outfitters near Watersmeet, Mich., is a font of knowledge about the Sylvania Wilderness and Recreation Area. His company sells everything from Michigan fishing licenses to fully provisioned trips with meals, canoes and camping equipment.   (Mark Shuman/Chicago Tribune )

The writer’s son Ian Shuman, right, and his friend Robert Heidt canoe the waters of Sylvania.   (Mark Shuman/Chicago Tribune )

The writer’s campsite on the shore of Mountain Lake was spacious and breezy, which helped keep mosquitoes at bay.   (Mark Shuman/Chicago Tribune )

A loon — one of many in the Sylvania Wilderness — nests on an island.   (Mark Shuman/Chicago Tribune )