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The land of the big trees

Redwood is one of America's least-visited national parks but not for its lack of beauty; it has that hands down, what with 2,000-year-old redwoods, 40% of California's seabirds, an overlook where the wild Klamath River merges with the vast Pacific and all the other glory that an old-growth forest has to offer.
(Brian van der Brug/ Los Angeles Times)
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Los Angeles Times Staff Writers

These magnificent parks mark the far northern quarter of California’s map with green splotches near its coastline.

Redwood is one of America’s least-visited national parks but not for its lack of beauty; it has that hands down, what with 2,000-year-old redwoods, 40% of California’s seabirds, an overlook where the wild Klamath River merges with the vast Pacific and all the other glory that an old-growth forest has to offer.

Its protected lands are jointly managed by the National Park Service and the California Department of Parks and Recreation and include Jedediah Smith, Del Norte Coast and Prairie Creek redwoods state parks.

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Age appropriate

The parks’ Junior Ranger program is aimed at kids 7 to 12 years old, though it’s open to those younger and older.

Through it, children get to examine the parks up close, including their prairies and tide pools. They earn a patch for hiking, picking up litter or attending a ranger-led program.

Too much fun

Glimpse a migrating gray whale -- and a host of other sea animals -- from the Klamath River Overlook.

Best adventure

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Tall Trees Grove is exactly what it sounds like; one tree here once grew almost 370 feet tall (its crown fell off due to harsh conditions caused by logging). This magical place, where looking up could make you feel like falling over in awe, is the park’s main sight to see.

Its 600-year-old beauties could turn anyone into a tree hugger. A permit is required to see the grove; get it for free at the Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center.

Keep ‘em happy / No museums, Dad!

In an old-fashioned town called Eureka (on Humboldt Bay south of Redwood National Park and north of Humboldt Redwoods State Park) is a unique business called Blue Ox Millworks.

Its staff offers tours and workshops so that families can watch -- and sometimes participate -- as experts craft architectural replacement parts, using historical tools, for the local Victorian homes.

Timing is everything

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To see the migrating gray whales, come in December, January, March or April. To see native wildflowers in bloom, come in May for rhododendrons, June and July for azaleas. Weather-wise, summer is mild and foggy, whereas winter is cool and rainy.

Avoid the crowds

In the park’s southern section is the descending Dolason Prairie Trail, a rarely accessed (comparatively speaking) walkway that’s 2 1/2 miles round-trip to a sheep barn and 6 miles to Tall Trees Grove (see above). The hike is moderately difficult, but you’re unlikely to pass many other souls along the way.

For your efforts, you’ll be rewarded with stunning sights of old-growth trees, wide grasslands, Roosevelt elk (possibly) and, in spring, an exuberant display of wildflowers.

Can’t miss

During summer, members of the Tolowa and the Yurok tribes present entrancing Native American dance demonstrations for free at the Jedediah Smith picnic area and the Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center. The performances include explanations of each dance’s significance.

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Bargain lodging and dining

Redwood Adventures Vacation Village offers six 1,200-square-foot cabins, each of which sports écor that reflects the forest’s history, plus a full kitchen and satellite TV. For camping (available May through September), choose Del Norte’s Mill Creek campground.

Eureka’s Lost Coast Brewery and Samoa Cookhouse are good, character-filled places to eat.

Inside track

If you’re driving from points south or north, U.S. Highway 101 laces through most of the parks. If you’re coming from the east, U.S. Highway 199 will be your route. To fly in, book on Horizon Air, which offers service to Arcata-Eureka Airport.

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