On the tasting trail of Aquitaine

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, connecting service (change of plane) to Bordeaux is offered on Air France, Aer Lingus and KLM. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,140 until Sept. 10, then drop to $730 until Oct. 31.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 33 (country code for France), 5 (the area code) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Une Auberge en Gascogne, 9 Faubourg Corné, Astaffort 47220; 53-67-10-27, fax 53-67-10-22, . Small inn with bare-bones rooms. Doubles $65 to $155.

Le Logis des Remparts, 18 Rue Guadet, St.-Emilion 33330; 57-24-70-43, fax 57-74-47-44. Gracious hotel in a restored Gothic house. Doubles $110 to $194.

Château Cordeillan-Bages, in Pauillac 33250; 56-59-24-24, fax 56-59-01-89, . A 25-room hotel set in the vineyards, with lovely gardens, a pool and gym. Doubles $230 to $335 ($187 to $273 in low season).

Ithurria, Rue Principale, Ainhoa 64250; 59-29-92-11, fax 59-29-81-28, . This recently renovated hotel has comfortable, traditionally furnished rooms. Doubles $148 to $181.

La Villa Navarre, 59 Avenue Trespoey, Pau 64000; 59-14-65-65, . A beautiful 1865 villa with spectacular views. Doubles $237 to $406.

WHERE TO EAT:

Une Auberge en Gascogne (see above). Modern cooking with a sense of humor. Interesting, well-priced wine list. Four-, five- and six-course menus for $52, $65 and $77, respectively. Main courses about $28.

Hostellerie de Plaisance, Place du Clocher, St.-Emilion; 57-55-07-55, . Forward-looking cuisine that features the best products of southwest France. Appetizers $48 to $75; main courses $53 to $62. Four-course set menu $62. (Closed Dec. 3-March 14.)

Château Cordeillan-Bages (see above). Cutting-edge cuisine. Appetizers and main courses $36 to $62; menu of three half-port.

-- Leslie Brenner