The onion-domed Taj, as seen through an archway. The hotel where Times staff writer Scott Kraft stayed the Oberoi Amarvilas had excellent views of the Taj Mahal, less than half a mile away. (Scott Kraft / Los Angeles Times)
Looking toward the gate from the Taj Mahal. (Scott Kraft / LAT)
Agra Fort, built by the Mogul emperor Akbar, is a vast fortified palace in the Taj Mahals city, a 145-mile drive from Jaipur. That trip over a two-lane road can require a drive to weave in and out among goats, monkeys, camels, cows, elephants, carts, tractors, with ancient forts dotting the hills above. (Scott Kraft / LAT)