L.A. institutions

Restaurants come and go so quickly, it’s hard to keep up. But some places are marking big anniversaries this year.

Vincenti

Ten years ago, Maureen Vincenti opened this contemporary Italian spot to honor her late husband Mauro, the man behind Rex, Pazzia and Fennel. Pastas include potato gnocchi with lobster, cherry tomatoes, asparagus and pesto -- and Monday nights, chef Nicola Mastronardi makes about 10 types of thin crust pizzas, on top of the regular menu.

* Gnocchi with lobster, $22. 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 207-0127.

Langer’s Deli

This 60-year-old deli -- whose founder, Al Langer, died Sunday, two weeks after its anniversary -- does blintzes, potato pancakes and smoked fish. But we can’t imagine eating anything but a pastrami sandwich, which you can get with all kinds of extras, including sauerkraut and the irresistibly named “Nippy” cheese (actually plain old American). That would be the No. 44.

* No. 44, $12.30. 704 S. Alvarado St., L.A., (213) 483-8050.

Matsuhisa

It’s hard to imagine a time when Nobu Matsuhisa wasn’t a household name among foodies. But 20 years ago, when Matsuhisa opened his eponymous place on Restaurant Row, few had heard of the pioneering chef or seen anything like his creative take on Japanese cuisine: tuna tataki with cilantro dressing, sashimi tacos and king crab with ginger salsa.

* Tuna tataki, $20. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 659-9639.

Traxx

Ten years ago this December,

Tara Thomas opened her stylish restaurant in Union Station. The patio, shaded by mature jacaranda trees, is lovely this time of year, just the spot to have Thomas’ crunchy little crab cakes with chipotle chile remoulade or juicy house-cured pork chop with mission fig polenta.

* Pork chop, $25. 800 N. Alameda St., downtown L.A., (213) 625-1999.

Spago

There are newer restaurants in the Wolfgang Puck fold: Cut, and the just debuted Red Seven. But this one, celebrating the big 10, is the highest profile. Lee Hefter’s menu has seasonal faves, such as heirloom tomatoes with shaved sweet onion and goat ricotta, and tempura soft shell crab with a salad of caramelized sweet white corn.

* Crab, $24. 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-0880.